An Open Letter to Hema Potla

Dear Hema,

You won't recognize my name, but I have eaten in your restaurant many, many times. Each and every experience has been so wonderful, I felt it only fitting to express my gratitude in writing.

First, I should admit that I do frequent several of the other Indian restaurants near you on Devon Avenue -- please don't be mad. Though I love gorging myself on the variety of buffets offered up and down the street, I find myself returning again and again to your heavenly kitchen.

And by "heavenly" I am simply referring to the food, Hema. The atmosphere is by no means worthy of such description, although I was ecstatic to discover on my last visit that you have expanded to the adjoining room. Congratulations! I expect your other regulars are just as excited about the new space as I am.

I realize this expansion is quite recent (within the last three weeks), and therefore you haven't had time to decorate the new room accordingly (which is why the scattered, mismatched tables stand lonesome under glaring fluorescent lights). Although my server assured me that the new room wasn't quite finished, I am doubtful about its artistic future given the interior decorating (or rather, complete lack thereof) in the old room. Hema, what is the deal with that? Your restaurant is -- I apologize for the harshness of this statement -- downright ugly; to say it doesn't have atmosphere would be an understatement -- in fact, it has negative atmosphere. A couple of pictures on the walls, a few clean tablecloths, or a bit of muted lighting could do wonders.

But I don't mean to complain. I have grown used to the comfortable shabbiness and besides, I know your regulars come for the food and not the décor. Speaking of food, Hema, I would like to take this opportunity to thank you for the most excellent meal my boyfriend and I had last Thursday. As usual, you really outdid yourself. It began with not one, but two of your appetizers. I absolutely cannot resist your vegetable samosas and order them every time I visit -- the blend of potatoes and peas tucked into a warm, flaky pocket has the perfect amount of kick. We also tried the spicy patties of ground lamb and lentils fried to a golden brown, and we almost preferred it to your samosas (I know, astounding, but true). And then I had my absolute favorite meal of yours -- the chicken mahkani. You must share the recipe with me -- the pieces of tandori chicken were so tender and the rich onion and tomato sauce was so spicy my eyes were tearing.

I am embarrassed to tell you that I am not very original when it comes to ordering food at your restaurant. I have gotten to the point where I crave your samosas and chicken mahkani so much, that I rarely order anything else -- I know, it sounds very boring, especially since you have so many tasty lamb and vegetarian dishes, but I am always happy with my choices. My boyfriend (reluctantly) let me try his dish -- spicy chunks of lamb with spinach -- and I found that to be fantastically flavorful as well.

But I'll stop gushing over the food, as I'm sure you hear people raving about it all day long. Before I end, however, I would also like to bring up a somewhat touchy subject. I have overheard a few complaints regarding the competency of your service. I'm not going to lie to you, Hema: eating in your restaurant is something of a process, and I usually allow a good hour and a half for lunch or dinner because I know how long it takes to be served. But I find the laid-back attention charming. My biggest annoyance when I go out to eat is feeling rushed my server. At your restaurant, I feel encouraged to linger long after the food has been devoured and the plates licked clean.

And so, Hema, I will refrain from taking up any more of your time. I just wanted to thank you for making some of the best Indian food around and selling it at a reasonable price (since everything on your menu is $7.99 and under). I'll see you soon.

Sincerely yours,
Kim Conte

P.S. While we were eating dinner last Thursday, your little grandson asked me repeatedly to please please please play baseball with him. I couldn't because I was in the middle of eating dinner and, well, I suck at sports. Please tell him I would love to play with him next time I come in, as long as no athletic activities are involved.

Hema's Kitchen is located at 6406 N. Oakley Ave. It is BYOB.