Have you ever noticed the dreamy look that comes over people's faces when you tell them you had dinner at Rose Angelis?

Do you know what I mean? I told a co-worker that I went to Rose Angelis last week and his eyes glazed over, a stupid grin spread across his face, and he actually cooed: "That place is SOOO romantic."

Romantic? I suppose that the dim lighting, lace curtains, hardwood floors, and a maze of small, cozy rooms make this neighborhood Italian spot in Lincoln Park noticeably endearing. But it baffles me when I hear it described time and time again as one of the most romantic restaurants in the city. I am confounded by the fact that I have been to Rose Angelis on no less than three first dates (each time it was my date -- not I -- who suggested it). And I never cease to be perplexed when people go ga-ga at the mere mention of this place.

Don't get me wrong: I think Rose Angelis is lovely. But I also think it is one of the most overrated restaurants in the city.

For starters, this place doesn't take reservations; I don't know about you, but to me, being informed that there is a two hour wait for the first available table is something of a buzz kill no matter how hot my date may be. On a weeknight the wait is much more reasonable, but come Friday or Saturday, you'd better be prepared to entertain yourselves for a long, long time.

This wouldn't be so bad if Rose Angelis had a bar to accommodate patrons while they waited, but the front room, albeit darling, is so cramped that I find spending a mere five minutes in the space painful. A better idea is to stop in at one of the neighboring bars -- Tavish, Maeve or the shiny new Thirsty McCarthy's, perhaps -- and pass the time with an appetizer and a drink (or five depending on how badly the date is going). I don't necessarily think that leaving a restaurant to guzzle beers next door until a table opens is romantic, but at least it'll give you something to do.

Once you do manage to wrangle a table, you'd better keep an eye on your watch because whether you like it or not, the staff is paying close attention to how long you've been there. The bottom of the menu reads, "Please respect those waiting by limiting your stay after dinner," and the servers will, in fact, ask you to leave if they think you have been idling too long. Now, I realize I just complained about the long wait and this request is intended for those rude customers who stay on for hours and hours; but after waiting two hours for a table, I refuse to chug half of my bottle of wine just so they can squeeze in one more table before the kitchen closes. Believe me, I did this once and it wasn't pretty (or romantic).

The food at Rose Angelis is actually quite good and decently priced (most entrees range from $11-$16). The menu features creative rustic Italian options and is mostly vegetarian (although a few poultry and fish dishes are available). The last time I was there I had an amazing duck-filled tortellone that was overloaded with spinach, tomatoes, sun-dried tomatoes, and huge chunks of fresh mozzarella all swimming in a light wine reduction sauce. My dining companion enjoyed his portobello con pollo dish as well -- layers and layers of portobello slices, grilled chicken and spinach doused in a balsamic vinegar and red wine cream sauce. Other stellar options include ravioli in a sun-dried tomato cream sauce and spinach pasta stuffed with ricotta and pesto in a brown butter sauce.

Although I find Rose Angelis' entrees to be quite delicious, the food is so hearty, that I'm pretty sure it won't put you in a romantic mood -- unless, of course, you think passing out on the couch in front of Saturday Night Live is sexy. The portions are so gigantic that I've never been able to finish, let alone order dessert (tiramisu, bread pudding and chocolate-chip espresso cheesecake are just some of the things I've missed out on). Also, if you do happen to be going out after dinner, it is cumbersome to lug around a doggie-bag; unfortunately, much of the food goes to waste.

Despite all of my complaining, I probably will never stop going to Rose Angelis. The toothsome food and cute atmosphere are too good to pass up. I simply refuse to make it a part of my next romantic evening. What can I say? I'm hard to please.

Rose Angelis is located at 1314 W. Wrightwood. Visit them online at roseangelis.com.