I really thought I was going to hate Feast.
Without even going there, I had already made up my mind about this place. It bothered me simply because it is located in the "trendy" part of town (on the corner of Damen, North, and Milwaukee, for those of you who are not trendy), it has a "look-at-me" patio sidled up to the sidewalk, and on weekends a chatty, dapper crowd spills out of its doors regardless of the time of night. The rumors about the pretentious wait staff didn't help matters. I managed to steer clear of this place for months, telling myself it lacked the originality of the other restaurants I admire in Chicago.
But two weeks ago, finding myself in the Wicker Park neighborhood at the dinnertime hour for one reason or another, I decided to give it a go. And now, pardon the pun, I'm eating my words.
For starters, the wait staff was pleasant and friendly. When my dining companion and I couldn't agree on whether we should dine inside or out (can you figure out which of us argued for a table indoors?), the host cheerfully showed us to a table that while situated on the patio, was still covered by the awning of the restaurant, allowing us spectacular views of both worlds -- a perfect compromise. Later, our server patiently explained the menu items to us, and even when she had to come back not once, but three times to take our orders, she remained good-humored.
More surprising to me than the helpful staff was the menu variety; the list of options is long and impressive. The cuisine at Feast can best be described as global fusion with Indian, Italian, Asian, Mediterranean and Latin American flavors all making an appearance.
Meat-eaters will have a tough time deciding between the pork chop with asparagus and mushroom crepes, grilled lamb chops, marinated skirt steak, beef tenderloin with bleu cheese potatoes or one of a variety of chicken dishes. Vegetarian options such as a black bean jalapeno ravioli and Indian veggie plate are also available, as well as a wide range of fish. And, happily, Feast is one of the few -- too few, if you ask me -- restaurants in town that serve turkey burgers.
By now I was feeling pretty dumb for initially writing off this place as being unoriginal and ostentatious. My only hope was that the food would be inedible, or, at least, cold -- only then would I be justified for avoiding Feast. Alas, this was not to be. Our crab cake appetizer, fresh lump crab meat patties adorned with a roasted corn salsa and scorching chipotle mayonnaise, was delicious. I ordered a bowl of steamy chicken tortilla soup that was loaded with fresh vegetables and chunks of chicken and had a fiery kick -- just how I like it. Even the complimentary bread bucket, soft cheddar biscuits with a chipotle-flavored whipped butter, was excellent.
But it was my dining companion's entrée that really blew us out of the water. A tender breast of chicken stuffed with herbed goat cheese lay atop delicately toasted potato gnocchi, fresh spinach, and tomatoes. The entire dish was bathed in a light citrusy sauce, the subtle lemon flavors proving a delightful compliment to the strong goat cheese. If you can't already tell from the description, this dish was amazing.
My order, the wonton napoleon appetizer, was less stellar, although it certainly had potential. (I had opted for an appetizer as my dinner because Feast serves huge portions, and with the bread, soup, and crab cakes, not to mention all the stolen bites from my dining companion's dish, I didn't think that I could tackle a whole entrée by myself.) The wonton appetizer was a literal tower (thus, the name) of layers: Mixed greens, crispy fried wonton chips, tuna sashimi, tuna tartar, and smoked salmon were piled on top of each other and drizzled in wasabi dressing. The dish definitely scored creative and aesthetic points with me, but, disappointingly, the tuna was not nearly as fresh as it could have been.
Yet, this minor setback far from ruined our meal. Overall, I was enormously impressed by the value of the food and the creativity of the menu. The prices, although higher than what I would normally pay for dinner on a weeknight, are fair; most entrees are in the range of $13-$16, and the diverse wine list is affordable. Sure, you won't see me on the patio next Saturday night, martini in hand, posing for the crowd, but I guess I wouldn't mind returning soon to try Feast's signature mac and cheese at a table in the corner. And I suppose I wouldn't mind recommending this place to others.
Boy, do I hate being wrong.
Feast is located at 1616 N. Damen. Visit them online at feastrestaurant.com.
eric f / August 16, 2004 10:25 AM
Man, do I dislike critics who are all 'post-popular'. As in the first paragraph. Seriously, get over it, you're writing a restaurant critique, not Lewis and Fuckingclark discovering new dining opportunities for the white man here. I don't care how many exhibitions you've attended at Buddy.
Anyway, I've been to Feast twice now and had the same problem both times: the apps were amazing, the mains were bland. It's been a few years, so maybe things have inverted, but crossing my experiencing with the review, it still seems hit-or-miss.