There are two things that consistently make me cranky: claustrophobia and extreme hunger. Unfortunately, I experienced both in large quantities at Victory's Banner last weekend.
It used to be that during prime breakfast-dining hours on the weekends you could stroll through the front door, receive a warm greeting from the staff, and be ushered immediately to a table. Even on the busiest of days, you might have to wait a mere 10 minutes, but a mug of steaming coffee made these rare delays exorbitantly pleasant.
Last Saturday, I found the scene at Victory's Banner to be quite different. A throng of people stood shoulder to shoulder in the tiny entryway waiting for a table, while those brave enough to tolerate the cold milled around outside. The host (who did not bring coffee to me or anyone else waiting) informed me that the wait would not exceed 20 minutes; nearly an hour later, I had still not been seated, but I had succeeded in being bumped, pushed, and prodded a multitude of times by my fellow waitees. My stomach rumblings were so loud that everyone in the restaurant could hear, and I had taken to glaring at the other diners while holding the door open to let in a blustery draft, desperately hoping they would be encouraged to leave soon.
What is it about Victory's Banner that draws swarms of people and causes me to demonstrate such ghastly behavior? The food, of course.
I suppose it was only a matter of time before this tiny vegetarian brunch spot in Roscoe Village became immensely popular. You can't serve up such toothsome breakfast marvels as the Athenian omelette stuffed full of fresh tomato, onion and feta cheese or the raspberry French toast dusted with powered sugar, and not expect to attract a hungry following. Apparently, the secret of Victory's Banner is out -- much sooner that I had expected.
I may have been distraught by the long wait for a table, but I was by no means disappointed with the breakfast I was served. All it took was a cup of strong coffee and cream and a pesto and goat cheese omelette to help me regain composure. A pile of soft goat cheese was folded into a fluffy omelette, made with three free-range eggs, tinged green from homemade pesto. Mouthful after mouthful of the creamy cheese laced with fresh basil and parsley did wonders for my grumpy mood, as did the side of grilled potatoes sprinkled in hot sauce and slabs of thick, multigrain bread smeared with jam.
The omelettes are all entirely worthy of extreme gushing, but the undeniable star of the Victory's Banner show is the French toast. Enormously thick wedges of egg-dunked bread are grilled to a golden brown; the outside is crusty, but the inside has the consistency of a moist piece of yellow cake. There is only one acceptable way to devour this delicacy -- slathered in the accompanying peach butter and drizzled in maple syrup. I'm not sure if this description is even partly doing justice to this culinary masterpiece, but I implore you to believe me that the French toast is indeed luscious.
Victory's Banner gets crazy with their pancakes as well, employing a hodgepodge of ingredients -- oat bran, apples, pecans, chocolate chips, raspberries, bananas, walnuts -- in an effort to induce salivation. For those who prefer to skip breakfast, there is also an extensive lunch menu complete with salads, wraps, and soup. I have yet to try any of these offerings since I am so very addicted to the morning items (which are served all day long), but I have heard diners compliment the veggie burgers and the neatloaf, a combination of grains, cheese, tofu, rice, and spices served as a sandwich or alongside mashed potatoes.
For all of my complaining about the wait at Victory's Banner last Saturday, I must admit that it wasn't any longer than what I have experienced at other breakfast places at that time of the morning. In retrospect, I am a little embarrassed by my impatience. Owner Pradhan Balter, a student of mediation and the Indian spiritual master Sri Chinmoy, touts his restaurant as a "spiritual expression" on the menu; as a result, his staff is more interested in serving good food in a relaxed, sunny environment than they are about turning over tables. On most occasions, I find this compassionate perspective refreshing -- just not when my stomach is painfully empty.
Victory's Banner is located at 2100 W. Roscoe. It is open daily from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. except on Tuesdays.
Naz / February 22, 2004 11:23 PM
Lunch is also excellent at Victory's Banner, which I actually get more often than breakfast. The Smoky (un)Chicken Wrap or Tofy Curry Wrap are to be savoured.
I'm also a little surprised by this report of new found popularity. I haven't been there in two weeks maybe and I've never seen or experienced such a wait. It's good for their business I'm sure. I also tend to go there for lunch more than I do breakfast and moreso on weekdays so perhaps I've missed out on these waits -- perhaps not a bad thing.