Would you pretend to be Christian for a paid trip to Africa for the purpose of taking pictures? Such a question was posed to me last spring, but I couldn't answer immediately. "Let me think about it."
Some background: I renounced my somewhat lax Methodist upbringing by the time I was 14, and haven't looked back. Which isn't to say I'm an atheist, or anything else that can be labeled; I just look elsewhere, mostly within and without. But that's not what this piece is about.
I love to travel. It's been my goal to go as many places as possible in my lifetime. I believe that people grow in proportion to new experiences, and I have thus cultivated a history of seeking out new environments just to see what it feels like to be there. I also love to take pictures. Ever since acquiring my first digital camera a couple years ago, I don't leave my house without some kind of photographic device. Everywhere I go I see potential pictures. The world in a frame.
Fig1. In 1957, Ghana became the first African colony to gain independence.
So it should be an easy decision, right? Someone else pays for me to go to a place I've never been, might otherwise never go, with the express purpose of taking photographs, documentation. Still, I couldn't just say yes. The trip would be with a group of Christians who are building an AIDS hospital in a rural Ghanan town called Ankaase, which is definitely a good thing. But they'll also be teaching bible school, something that makes me faintly queasy thinking about it.
I can't ignore all the historical damage done in the name of Christianity, the imperialism and exploitation of almost every African country for the profit of white men and the Western world. And I cannot be a part of that -- at least no more than my lifestyle as an American involuntarily contributes.
But building an AIDS hospital in the middle of a pandemic can't be all that evil, right? If I went, I'd be doing construction as well as taking pictures and shooting video. Construction, something I have always loved. There's something so satisfying about using your hands to build something, watch it come together, the feel of tools in a callusing palm. I've missed it. If I spent all my time on construction and documentation, there wouldn't be room for me to teach bible stuff. Maybe I could do this...
So I said yes. I'll go to Ghana for three weeks and try not to out myself as a heathen. Hypocrisy? Yep. But what has been more historically hypocritical than the Church? I'm used to speaking my opinions; I stopped pretending to be someone I wasn't years ago, and have been much happier for it. Even so, I've come to terms with the fact that I have to respect the people who are supporting me in this excursion. My fellow travelers, my sponsors. I just hope I don't have to sing Kumbaya.
Also, I think that if I went to Africa on my own and saw the AIDS crisis firsthand, as well as the poverty resulting from years of exploitation by my culture, I'd want to do something about it. It could be pretty depressing to just go there for fun and not do anything to help. So I'm doing this thing, this small thing that probably won't make much of a difference, but I'd like to think that it's better than tourism.
Since making the decision I've been a bit uneasy with it, forgetting to tell friends and family, who are used to me talking excitedly about whatever destination I plan to visit next. "I'm going to Ghana." Four words that have been surprisingly hard to say.
Now that the decision's been made, the preparation is underway: filling out visa applications, making lists of supplies, and getting vaccinations. Growing up, I endured years of weekly allergy shots, so needles don't phase me. Immunizations are a bit different though: after receiving the first round of Yellow Fever, Typhoid, and Hepatitis A and B shots, I could not move my arm more than 10 or 15 degrees for two days. It was so sore that just being touched made me wince. And I have how many more vaccinations to go? Polio, TB/ Diphtheria, Meningitis, more Hepatitis...
Gotta love the health care system, and by "love" I mean "loathe": three shots cost me almost $400 because my insurance wouldn't cover it (and I consider myself very lucky to even have insurance). I could have taken pills instead of getting a shot for Typhoid, but decided against swallowing live salmonella. If I decide to get rabies vaccinations, three of those shots will cost me $600. I'll be in a rural village with a lot of dogs; I like dogs, and my instinct is to pet them. If I do get bit or scratched, I'd have to drive six hours to a facility and pay $1,000 for an emergency immunoglobulin shot made from human blood, which, in Africa, has a pretty high chance of containing HIV. I haven't yet made a decision on the rabies shot.
Then there's Malaria. I'll be slathering myself with DEET mosquito repellant and taking 300mg a day of vitamin B1, but will still need to take Malaria pills. I got a crash course on the various prescriptions available: Larium is most commonly prescribed, and while the "vivid dreams" seem like a cool side effect, the psychotic episodes and hair loss made me choose against it. Doxycycline is cheap, but usually causes yeast infections and stomach problems. So I settled on Malarone, which has the least amount of common side effects (only seven), but costs about $5 a pill.
Fig2. Five dollars, 10, 15, 20, 25...
The travel clinic gave me a thorough lecture on not drinking tap water (no ice in drinks, either), something I got used to when I lived in Sydney and the water supply was contaminated for six weeks. Also, no swimming in freshwater to avoid Schistosomiasis. No eating fresh fruit, since it's frequently injected with water to add weight. Plus a prescription for Cipro in case I do get traveler's diarrhea.
So much more to do before I leave: buy supplies, get additional immunizations, attend training in Alabama this weekend, shop for and purchase a video camera, find out about the power availability and voltage...lots to do but it's all quite exciting, even the mundane tasks.
Though part of me remains conflicted about the trip, I've made a decision: I'm going to Ghana.
Naz / July 25, 2003 8:29 AM
Jes, that sounds pretty damn intense. Though you had mentioned some of this before, I hadn't heard the whole thing that is intense. I respect you for it though, because it is bad-arse and it is doing something you believe in (not the Missionary thing that is). Salut!