Restaurant Mon Feb 25 2008

Wanting More from La Cocina de Frida

Like other reviewers, I'm still holding out hope for Andersonville's newest Mexican restaurant. When I ate there the other night, I was not wowed by the food, but the fact that the kitchen is still working off a provisional menu gives me reason to believe that the dishes are still being refined, and that, once the kinks are worked out, La Cocina de Frida will offer a much more satisfying dining experience.

I usually like my guacamole with no frills, but I thought Frida's version was great, even though it was chock-full of cilantro and had a bit of kick to it. The ceviche was a disappointment: it consisted of nothing but chopped shrimp in a tomato broth, and the heat of the hot peppers drowned out all other flavors. And why was it served with saltine packets? (See photo at right.) The bomba Frida, a pile of chopped pork and pineapple which two of my dining companions ordered, was deemed tasty but heavy, with its thick blanket of melted cheese.

So I'll definitely be giving La Cocina de Frida another chance, but maybe not for a few months. As soon as the menus are printed on something a little more permanent than colored paper, I'll be back.

— Dana Currier / Comments (1)