Restaurant Mon Mar 17 2008

Off the Menu @ Avec

I announced myself as vegan, and humbly asked about making changes to a few of Avec's items. I thought perhaps I'd have their house-marinated olives, cauliflower and garlic crostini, wood-fired pizza or focaccia. I was up for whatever they had in mind, so long as I could gaze down this narrow restaurant, warm of light wood walls, tables, stools and benches, all cleanly organized in line from front to back. Our server consulted the kitchen, tucked behind the bar, and then suggested the olives, citrus salad and a specially made pasta dish. My friend and I signed up. The olives came with a warm rectangular roll, tender inside and slightly crusty. Curly endive, fennel and halved hazelnuts made the salad's balsamic dance in my mouth, excited by fresh citrus wedges. Spaghetti was brilliantly nutty with almond slivers, with a nice chew from the looks of breadcrumbs, fennel, parsley, hot red pepper and plenty of oil. I wanted another, just a little less slippery. Our server suggested that the kitchen might not take well to a change request to their already customized offering, but they came through. The kitchen had known best though, their way had the more sensational mouth feel. I learned my lesson, wanting to make the original pasta in my own kitchen. I left on my bicycle, my friend sitting on the sturdy Dutch rear rack, my mouth still feeling quite happy. 615 W. Randolph Ave., (312) 377-2002.

— Chris Brunn / Comments (0)