Recipe Sat Sep 06 2008

Julia's Salade Nicoise

By Dana Currier

Because it's still salad season in these parts, why not try a classic recipe for Salade Nicoise? Julia Child was the first to bring French cuisine to American households, so there's no better source to turn to when it comes to preparing a traditional version of this common salad. Julia's Mastering the Art of French Cooking is no doubt a little out of date, especially in its ingredients (what exactly is "cooking oil"?), but with a few modifications, the recipes prove they can stand the test of time.

Salade Nicoise
(all recipes adapted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle)
serves 3-4 people

1 1/2 cup blanched green beans
2 quartered tomatoes
1/2 cup vinaigrette (see recipe below)
1 head lettuce (Julia uses Boston lettuce; I use red leaf or Romaine)
3 cups cold French potato salad (see recipe below)
1/2 canned tuna chunks
1/4 cup black olives
2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced
4-6 anchovy filets
2 tablespoons capers
2 tablespoons herbs (parsley, basil, whatever you like...)

Arrange the lettuce leaves on a platter and sprinkle with a little vinaigrette. Put potato salad in a mound in the middle of the platter. Arrange beans and tomatoes on lettuce leaves. Arrange slices of hard-boiled eggs, anchovies, olives and capers on lettuce leaves as well. Scoop the tuna on top of the potato salad. Sprinkle more dressing and herbs over all the ingredients.

Vinaigrette

red-wine vinegar
lemon juice
salt & pepper
mustard
olive oil
minced green herbs

Combine vinegar, lemon juice, salt, pepper and mustard. Add olive oil by pouring in a stream while whisking continuously. (Proportions of each ingredient can be determined by individual taste, but Julia generally recommends using one part vinegar to three parts oil.)

Pommes de terre a l'huile (French potato salad)

1 lb. boiling potatoes (such as Yukon gold or new potatoes; avoid Idahos or russets)
2 tablespoons dry white wine
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon mustard
salt & pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon minced shallot

Wash and scrub potatoes. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and drop in potatoes. Boil until they are just tender enough to be easily poked with a knife. Drain and cut into 1/8" slices. Place in a mixing bowl. Pour wine over potatoes and toss. Set aside until liquid is absorbed by the potatoes. Beat vinegar, mustard and salt in a small bowl. Beat in oil, and add pepper to taste. Stir in shallots. Pour dressing over potatoes.