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Saturday, October 22

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Review Thu Aug 20 2009

In Search of the Bacon Bun

Bacon bun, Bridgeport BakeryEarlier this year, I attended a donut party where I ate possibly the best donut ever--a simple chocolate-glazed cake number from Bridgeport Bakery. I knew that Bridgeport Bakery deserved an in-person visit, but I knew that the long trip I'd have to take on there on CTA would put me in a foul mood that no cruller could lessen.

Last week, I had to take a houseguest to Midway early in the morning using a car rented from my car-share program. Traffic was lighter than I expected, so after seeing her off, I knew I'd have time to kill before returning the car. Wow. Rather than turn back onto Cicero for the drive home, I slowly snaked up Archer Avenue, bound for the promised land.

Bridgeport Bakery is a very no-frills joint: a small storefront with bakery counters, no arty pictures of cakes on the wall or even a real sitting area to enjoy your buys. But it's hardly a problem. You want to inhale your donuts in solitude. I ordered a few glazed cake donuts, and then realized that this is the place that sells the Bacon Bun that I've heard of so many times. I got one of those as well. I grabbed a (free) cup of coffee and headed home. I had work to do.

The cake donuts, which had obviously been made a few minutes before my visit, were extraordinarily good. Bridgeport really excels in the donut department. But the Bacon Bun? Well, I was expecting something sweet--perhaps a raised donut with bits of crispy bacon stuffed inside, covered with maple glaze--but I was given a mildly rude awakening.

Bacon bunFirstly, Bacon Buns aren't terrible. Simply put, it's a challah-like horn-shaped roll with a few large-ish pieces of bacon stuffed inside. A slight criticism was that the bacon was of a pretty industrial grade--edible and decent, but I ended up removing what was a huge chunk of fat at one point. Ergh. The bread was quite buttery and good, but overall it wasn't what I was expecting, especially having come off Bridgeport's wonderfully solid donut selection.

I can see the Bacon Bun being a popular cold weather treat--as a side to a bowl of corn chowder or some equally as heavy soup, or smeared with jam and served as a side to a pile of scrambled eggs. But it's not going to be cold for a long time--right?

Bridgeport Bakery
2907 South Archer

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Meg / August 20, 2009 9:20 AM

If you want bacon on your donut, nothing beats the maple bacon bar at Voodoo Donuts in Portland,OR.

R / August 20, 2009 11:57 AM

I love Voodoo Donut! I don't think the maple bacon bar was sold the one time I went there, but what I had was great.

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Feature Thu Dec 31 2015

The State of Food Writing

By Brandy Gonsoulin

In 2009, food blogging, social media and Yelp were gaining popularity, and America's revered gastronomic magazine Gourmet shuttered after 68 years in business. Former Cook's Illustrated editor-in-chief Chris Kimball followed with an editorial, stating that "The shuttering of Gourmet reminds...
Read this feature »

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