Review Thu Aug 20 2009

In Search of the Bacon Bun

Earlier this year, I attended a donut party where I ate possibly the best donut ever--a simple chocolate-glazed cake number from Bridgeport Bakery. I knew that Bridgeport Bakery deserved an in-person visit, but I knew that the long trip I'd have to take on there on CTA would put me in a foul mood that no cruller could lessen.

Last week, I had to take a houseguest to Midway early in the morning using a car rented from my car-share program. Traffic was lighter than I expected, so after seeing her off, I knew I'd have time to kill before returning the car. Wow. Rather than turn back onto Cicero for the drive home, I slowly snaked up Archer Avenue, bound for the promised land.

Bridgeport Bakery is a very no-frills joint: a small storefront with bakery counters, no arty pictures of cakes on the wall or even a real sitting area to enjoy your buys. But it's hardly a problem. You want to inhale your donuts in solitude. I ordered a few glazed cake donuts, and then realized that this is the place that sells the Bacon Bun that I've heard of so many times. I got one of those as well. I grabbed a (free) cup of coffee and headed home. I had work to do.

The cake donuts, which had obviously been made a few minutes before my visit, were extraordinarily good. Bridgeport really excels in the donut department. But the Bacon Bun? Well, I was expecting something sweet--perhaps a raised donut with bits of crispy bacon stuffed inside, covered with maple glaze--but I was given a mildly rude awakening.

Firstly, Bacon Buns aren't terrible. Simply put, it's a challah-like horn-shaped roll with a few large-ish pieces of bacon stuffed inside. A slight criticism was that the bacon was of a pretty industrial grade--edible and decent, but I ended up removing what was a huge chunk of fat at one point. Ergh. The bread was quite buttery and good, but overall it wasn't what I was expecting, especially having come off Bridgeport's wonderfully solid donut selection.

I can see the Bacon Bun being a popular cold weather treat--as a side to a bowl of corn chowder or some equally as heavy soup, or smeared with jam and served as a side to a pile of scrambled eggs. But it's not going to be cold for a long time--right?

Bridgeport Bakery
2907 South Archer
773-523-1121

— Robyn Nisi / Comments (2)