Review Sat Jan 16 2010

Mezé opens in the West Loop

By Shanna Quinn

Mezé is a new small-plate restaurant serving up an eclectic group of dishes inspired by cuisines from the Mediterranean, Caribbean, Asia, and the Americas. At first glance, I was worried that the menu was too eclectic, too many different styles - but it's the eclectic nature of Mezé that gives it it's charm. The global sampling of flavors is what sets it a part from other small-plate restaurants. And, the menu isn't as opposing as I initially thought - it has several repeating ingredients - red pepper, chipotle, and goat cheese to name a few - that help tie all the various styles together.

Prior to joining Mezé, the executive chef spent twenty-five years at the Ritz Carlton and his expertise shows in the dishes - they are flavorful and mostly unique. I say mostly because there are a couple items that felt too familiar, specifically the potato dishes. The Greek pommes frites and Papas Bravas didn't have that take-it-up-a-notch taste. I've had fries with feta before and while the signature chipotle alioli made the beef sliders, well more than a mini burger, the alioli couldn't help the uninspired roasted potatoes. But those dishes are the exception to the overall fantastic selection I sampled. A few personal favorites - the peppercorn beef with gorgonzola, the pepper-crusted tuna, and the goat cheese and tomato tart. The beef was tender and served with plenty of sauce and crostinis - this dish felt like home, it was comforting without feeling familiar. The gorganzola cheese gave the dish just the right amount of salt. The pepper-crusted tuna is served on a crispy wonton with a wasbai cream. This tuna plate is well balanced and light and would have paired nicely with a crisp white wine. Without a doubt, my favorite dish overall was the goat cheese and tomato tart. Wow-zah! This creamy cheese tart is served over a tomato and basil sauce with crusty bread. I could probably live off this tart forever.

My dinner mate chose a red wine from the Russian Valley to accompany our dishes and while the wine was fantastic, sometimes I felt the red overpowered some of the more delicate dishes. The red went great with the barbecued chicken winglets and lamb chops (with a red pepper puree) but it was too much for the Caribbean ceviche and the salmon and rosemary cream. I think Mezé would be wise to consider wine flights or samplers.

It doesn't take long to notice that Mezé is trying to be a little bit of everything for everyone - highbrow and homey, and it works. The global tunes balance out the local art covering the walls; the sleek bar area is toned down by the living room feel of the couch and coffee table combo peppering the perimeter of the space; and classic dishes pair up nicely with sophisticated combinations.

Mezé is located at 205 North Peoria St., 312-666-6625. Open Monday-Saturday 4pm-2am. Prices range from $6 to $13 per plate along with a full bar and wine selection.