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Review Wed Feb 03 2010
Dressed-up Snacks at Balsan
February is National Snack Food Month. While the occasion may inspire cravings of crunchy, salty, chewy or sweet noshes available in 100-calorie denominations, I am exploiting this month to explore slightly more substantive fare--what I refer to as refined small plates or dressed-up bar snacks.
Last week for snack time, I ventured to Balsan, the more casual of the new Elysian Hotel's two restaurants. The menu consists of a small but seemingly thoughtful selection of charcuterie and cheese, seafood from the raw bar, small and large plates, items from their wood-fired oven and sides.
Seated at the long, gleaming white bar, we ordered the foie gras torchon and duck rillettes to start. What we were served was one of the most handsome charcuterie arrangements I have seen--deconstructed and minimalistic, the serving at Balsan reminded me that there can be more to charcuterie than neatly ordering preserved meats on a wood board.
The foie gras proved unassuming except for the spun honey drizzled atop, and I wanted more concentrated duck and less fat from the rillettes. However, the potted chicken liver mousse that the kitchen sent out to us was rich and nuanced, and the head cheese gorgeous and herbaceous.
The charcuterie accompaniments were not afterthoughts. House-made bread, pickled shallots and beans, cornichons, apple butter, sliced pear and Jasper Hill Bandaged Cheddar proved distinct enhancements to the board.
After charcuterie, we tried two small plates. The testa cake, pork headcheese served with prunes, microgreens and garlic, lacked textural contrast despite searing and acidity to bring out the flavors of the garnishes. But the soft-boiled hen egg was heaven and earth in one dish. Days later, the silkiness of the yolk, brightness of the pickled wild mushrooms, soulful funk of the chicken liver and ethereal crunch of the potato lattice have continued to resound with me.
Balsan, like the hotel, feels like it needs to be broken in. The space is elegant without being stuffy. Restaurant staff were helpful and friendly. At $9-$16 for small plates, Balsan is not an inexpensive snack stop, but Executive Chef Jason McLeod and his team are turning out food with promise.
Balsan in the Elysian Hotel is located at 11 E. Walton Street, third floor, 312-646-1300.
