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Review Tue Feb 16 2010
Course Review: Roasted Marrow Bones @ Longman & Eagle
To be accurate, I had one roasted marrow bone: a vaguely volcanic-looking 7" bone standing upright, red onion jam heaped on on top (with more jam on the side, next to a small pile of sea salt). Ask for extra napkins--it's a messy, greasy trial scraping the golden-yellow fatty marrow out of the bone with an extra-long spoon, and when the dish first comes out, the bone is almost too hot to touch. Much like foie gras, marrow tastes like the delicious, delicious fat that it is, though with an extra metallic ping due to the high iron content; the tangy onion jam mellows this and adds a juicy, savory element. You get a few pieces of crisp sourdough that hold up to the marrow fairly well, but unless you load those pieces down, you'll be eating marrow from the spoon and possibly trying to suck it from the bone.
And there's nothing wrong with that.
At $9, it's a well-priced choice if you manage to get a seat at the still-hopping Longman & Eagle (my advice: show up before 6 and be willing to sit at the bar). A fair warning: if you order this while sitting at the bar, prepare for a charmingly bawdy torrent of bone-related banter with your server. Ordering one of their delicious Yuzu toddies will facilitate the process.
