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Restaurant Tue Apr 20 2010
Zealous Introduces Wednesday Night Prix Fixe
Wednesday could be your new night for fine dining. If you miss (or missed out on) the affordable fancy meals that abound during Restaurant Week and Chefs' Week, I've got good news: Zealous (419 W. Superior) is now serving Chefs'-Week-style prix fixe meals every Wednesday evening: three courses (plus an amuse bouche) for $35.00.
This new offering from Zealous's Chef Taus (also of Duchamp) kicked off last week, and I was there to check out the meal. Unlike many limited prix fixe menus, this one featured enough choices for first and second courses that I actually had to think it over. I opted for a Polynesian salad with shrimp and an "eggplant gâteau," as I was eager to find out what that could be.
If Zealous's label of "contemporary American cuisine" feels a little vague, at least it keeps their menu exciting. The execution suggested a theme of artful twists on familiar foods. My companion's beef filet was paired with mushrooms that were cooked and stacked to resemble the cut of meat they accompanied. My gâteau reminded me of eggplant parmesan, but it was certainly more complex and beautiful.
Instead of offering a choice for dessert, we were served two treats on the same plate. Essentially a cheescake and a chocolate opera cake, the art was in the details of ginger, Valrhona chocolate, and espresso semifreddo. No complaints here.
Zealous is the kind of restaurant that has $100 bottles of cabernet and waiters that fold your napkin when you leave your seat. However, it manages to demonstrate such feats of class without feeling ultra-trendy, stuffy, or inaccessible. Maybe that's why they've decided to make their cuisine available to the masses on Wednesday nights. I think the masses will be pleased.
