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News Mon May 09 2011
Up next at Next: Thailand 2032
I'm sure you've all heard of this new Grant Achatz project, which opened in April: menus changing three times per year, each reflecting an entirely different type of cuisine; the ticketing system that might lead people to sell their own children for a chance to reserve a table of two, four, or six (I don't think this has happened yet); the cocktail lounge (in the space of the former Fulton Lounge) attached to the restaurant where people can go for a few expensive, delicious, and strong pre- or post-dinner drinks.
Next's first menu was inspired by early 20th-century Paris -- thanks to a very lucky friend, last night I had a chance to try the Caneton Rouennais à la Presse with the Comté-covered Gratin de Pommes de Terre à la Dauphinoise, and the Mignardises (ask me to pronounce these words, and I'll turn as red as the beet pate de fruit in the last course).
Our friendly captain told us what kind of food we can expect next, after Paris 1906 has run its three-month course: some kind of futuristic Thai cuisine. It's an attempt to celebrate a particular golden age of Thai food, our captain told us, while also imagining what it might be like more than two decades from now. He was unable to share any hints of what diners might be eating: he doesn't even know, he said. Executive chef Dave Beran is still working on the menu.