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Recipe Wed May 29 2013
In Season: Ramps
You may have been puzzled by all the talk of ramps on Chicago menus this spring. What magical ingredient could possibly work in a ricotta pastry at Perennial, octopus salad at Longman and Eagle, and pickled in a cocktail at Hearty Boys?
Ramps are a variety of wild onion that grow in forested areas and are beloved by chefs for their pungent, garlicky flavor. Due to their short growing season and limited availability due to overharvesting, they are spring's most coveted vegetable (or as some haters put it, "the new arugula").
Never cooked a ramp? Now is your chance. Chicago is at the tail end of ramp season, and you might have to fight another eager foodie for the last bunch at your local farmer's market. If early morning brawls are not your style, Whole Foods still has ramps for at least another week.
Here's two dead simple recipes to get you started:
Sauteed ramps and kale
Slice ramp bulbs crosswise thinly and chop up the green leaves. Tear the leaves of a bunch of kale into bite-sized pieces (discard the stems). Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a sautee pan for a minute on high heat and then add ramp bulbs. Cook the ramps for about 2 minutes until they start to turn transulcent, then add the kale. Cook the kale, stirring often, until it is just seared, and then add the ramp greens for only another minute. Pile the garlicky greens onto a plate and top with crumbled ricotta salata or feta and a glug of your best olive oil.
Ramp Pesto
Chop the bulbs and stems from a bunch of ramps, and puree in a food processor with 1/2 cup pine nuts and 1/4 parmesan. With the processor running, add olive oil until it reaches a consistency you like. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Use the pesto on pasta, sandwiches or on bruschetta with a dollop of fresh ricotta.
Want more ramps?
Read more on Chicago's Ramp Mania.
Find out how ramp rage started in the first place.
