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Restaurant Tue Oct 07 2014

El Metro: Not Just Another Taco Spot

El Metro TacoEl Metro, a small counter-service restaurant touting "Mexican street food," has recently opened in the old Lorraine's Diner spot at 1959 W. Chicago Ave. -- breathing new life into the busy Damen corner.

The generous menu goes beyond just the ubiquitous taco (although you'll find an array of the old favorites -- pescado, pollo, pastor) and offers up some playful takes on street food standbys: There's the tostada de champiƱones, a crispy tortilla slathered with a super-savory layer of mashed potatoes and topped with a heap of caramelized mushrooms and goat cheese; and pambozos, white bread dipped in guajillo pepper sauce and stuffed with chorizo and potatoes.

metro03.jpgAntojos, or snacks, are also plentiful in true street food style: sweet and spicy esquites, juicy corn served off the cob with mayo and cojito cheese; and a vegetarian version of chicharrones made of crispy cheese with a side of salsa. Don't miss out on the dessert offerings either, especially a dense and decadent tres leches milkshake that's essentially a liquid slice of cake.

Part-owners Betty Romo and Veronica Pineau are no strangers to the neighborhood. They also own and operate Gaudi Cafe, famous for its brunch and evening tapas menu, which has recently moved to a larger location (with a liquor license!) on Grand Avenue. El Metro seems to be Gaudi's younger, hipper sister; staying open until 11 pm on the weekend (perhaps to attract the bar-hopping crowd that frequents haunts such as Bar Deville). It's certainly a welcome addition to growing number of local eateries in the West Town area -- despite what some people may contend, I truly believe that there can never be too many taco joints in the city.

 
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Greg / October 20, 2014 11:14 PM

We've been waiting for this place to open forever and unfortunately there's just nothing special about it. Too many better options nearby.

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Feature Thu Dec 31 2015

The State of Food Writing

By Brandy Gonsoulin

In 2009, food blogging, social media and Yelp were gaining popularity, and America's revered gastronomic magazine Gourmet shuttered after 68 years in business. Former Cook's Illustrated editor-in-chief Chris Kimball followed with an editorial, stating that "The shuttering of Gourmet reminds...
Read this feature »

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About Drive-Thru

Drive-Thru is the food and drink section of Gapers Block, covering the city's vibrant dining, drinking and cooking scene. More...
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Editor: Robyn Nisi, rn@gapersblock.com
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