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Review Wed Dec 10 2014

Upscale Food Meets Sport Bar at Commonwealth Tavern

rsz_dsc_0098.jpgDespite being a hodgepodge of concepts, Commonwealth Tavern serves strong dishes with surprisingly delicious flavors. Unlike most sport bars where burgers and fried items dominate the menu, Commonwealth also serves entrees designed to please the sophisticated palate.

The menu is fairly standard for a sports restaurant--wings, nachos, burgers, and other fried delectables. But I suggest bypassing all that and opt for the shared plates, including roasted squash with pickled ricotta and jagerwurst with sauerkraut and sourdough. The smoked chicken--with pumpkin butter and French lentils--isn't a bad place to start. The wood smoke used to infuse the chicken was truly magical--the potent notes of fresh char melded perfectly with the strong sour gastrique that coated the lentils and kale. The crispy pork shank exhibited the same balance and freshness of flavor, though the apple and fennel farro reminded me of an odd cinnamon oatmeal.

rsz_dsc_0102.jpgSmaller shared plates include seared scallops and fried dough(nuts) with piquillo sauce, both of which were incredibly delicious and executed perfectly. Dessert consisted of a thin ice-cream sandwich--peanut butter semifreddo nestled between two discs of crunchy chocolate. The expectation of a "sandwich" left me wanting something more sumptuous (or something softer in texture), but the semifreddo was creamy and enjoyable.

rsz_dsc_0101.jpgDespite initial pacing lags, I was admittedly impressed by the overall meal. A relaxed environment, straightforward food, and solid beverages make Commonwealth a nice spot to hang out and enjoy upscale food during a game.

Commonwealth Tavern
2000 Roscoe St.
773-697-7965

 
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Feature Thu Dec 31 2015

The State of Food Writing

By Brandy Gonsoulin

In 2009, food blogging, social media and Yelp were gaining popularity, and America's revered gastronomic magazine Gourmet shuttered after 68 years in business. Former Cook's Illustrated editor-in-chief Chris Kimball followed with an editorial, stating that "The shuttering of Gourmet reminds...
Read this feature »

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About Drive-Thru

Drive-Thru is the food and drink section of Gapers Block, covering the city's vibrant dining, drinking and cooking scene. More...
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Editor: Robyn Nisi, rn@gapersblock.com
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