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Review Tue May 05 2015
Old School Dining at Tortoise Club
Nestled adjacent to the Museum of Broadcast Communications, Tortoise Club is a masculine, mahogany-paneled restaurant with an old-school vibe. It's where Ron Swanson could sit alone under the dim lights, eating steak and drinking a couple of glasses (bottles?) of bourbon. In addition to classic steakhouse fare, the restaurant also offers unusual American twists like pheasant pie with foie gras, wild boar Bolognese, and bourbon barrel meatloaf. The menu also contains rare sightings for the nostalgic diner, including oysters Rockefeller, creamed spinach, and baked crab dip.
Our choice of steak tartare was simply seasoned, accompanied by waffled potato chips that came straight out of the fryer. The shrimp de jonghe--a dish that originated in Chicago--was tender and buttery, and was fine without the garlic toasts on the side. The Berkshire pork chop, with cheddar grits, was smoky and well-cooked. Given that it was pre-sliced (for delicate eating, I'd assume), I was surprised by how moist and juicy the meat tasted. The roasted Amish chicken was equally tender and savory, although the chef could've been more conservative with the cilantro chili sauce that blanketed the plate. For fish lovers, there was a side selection as well, including whitefish, trout, and sea bass. Dessert comprised of pies and cakes, as well as their house-made ice-cream special.
Tortoise Club may appear like a Manhattan or mint julep kind of place, but service feels comfortable, and the dark ambiance means you can largely ignore your table neighbors. And for diners who enjoy people-watching in glorious spring weather, there is plenty of outdoor seating as well.
Tortoise Club
350 N State St
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 755-1700
