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Review Mon Jun 22 2015

Art & Food at Fulton Market Kitchen

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Located right off the West Fulton restaurant row is a discreetly signed restaurant with an artsy interior and bohemian vibe. Aptly named Fulton Market Kitchen, this New American restaurant features a diverse menu with disparate global influences. I suggest ordering generously from the Appetizer category--for the seafood lover, there are the bay scallops and sweetbreads with pea shoots and fried lemon slices, or grilled octopus with pickled cauliflower. "Two Tails" (crispy pig tail with poached lobster tail) is an interesting twist on surf and turf, although the squash puree and glazed parsnips underlying the dish seemed to be the real stars.

rsz_dsc_1501.jpgThe flavors in the homemade pasta are also noteworthy, especially the mushroom ravioli with foie gras and veal jus. This savory dish had a wonderful meaty taste, but the actual pasta was slightly mushy, and the portions could have been much bigger for the price point. Fortunately, the foie was beautifully seared and, because it is goose liver, absolutely delicious. For the entrees, I suggest the suckling pig with date relish and smoked bacon jus, or the whole fried fish. The suckling pig was essentially an enormous piece of rendered bacon (crispy on the outside with just enough fat) and paired wonderfully with the Medjool date relish. However, the sweet potato sticks and fried green beans topping the whole entrée seemed distracting and were largely neglected. For dessert, the two small cups of butterscotch and chocolate mousse weren't too sweet and well-portioned -- overall, a pleasant way to end dinner.

rsz_dsc_1505.jpgApart from the small portion size (which is probably for the better), the flavors of Fulton Market Kitchen are well-balanced, elegantly plated, and disparate enough to satisfy all kind of palates. There's a decent drink menu, and the relaxed atmosphere is ideal for date night or dinner with friends.

Fulton Market Kitchen
311 N. Sangamon St.
Chicago, IL 60607
312-733-6900

 
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Feature Thu Dec 31 2015

The State of Food Writing

By Brandy Gonsoulin

In 2009, food blogging, social media and Yelp were gaining popularity, and America's revered gastronomic magazine Gourmet shuttered after 68 years in business. Former Cook's Illustrated editor-in-chief Chris Kimball followed with an editorial, stating that "The shuttering of Gourmet reminds...
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Drive-Thru is the food and drink section of Gapers Block, covering the city's vibrant dining, drinking and cooking scene. More...
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Editor: Robyn Nisi, rn@gapersblock.com
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