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Gapers Block published from April 22, 2003 to Jan. 1, 2016. The site will remain up in archive form. Please visit Third Coast Review, a new site by several GB alumni.
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Thursday, August 18

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Review Mon Jul 27 2015

Multi-Layered Modern Tacos in West Loop

rsz_img_0078.jpgMás is a modern Mexican restaurant in the West Loop, serving "upscale" tacos with lots of toppings. People are finicky about their tacos, and since its opening, the restaurant has reworked its menu quite a few times. Attracted by its sleek décor, I recently dined there to make my own judgments.

The guacamole at más is fresh and filled with jalapenos, and the accompanying root chips are an interesting (though brittle) twist on traditional tortilla chips. For the "ceviche", order the cola amarilla (yellowtail, sweet potato, chile de arbol ponzu sauce), an untraditional twist that looks and tastes more like spicy sashimi. Like many other items on the menu, the dish is Asian-influenced and quite delicious.

The "entrees" consist entirely of tacos, so order and share generously. You can order ten of the same tacos, or one of each. Upon first sight, the menu can mislead with the sheer number of ingredients per taco, but rest assured that this is verbosity, not flavor. Not all tacos are crafted equally, so order strategically. Steer clear of the cochinita pibil (entirely lacking in citrus and achiote), the camaron en salsa verde (wild gulp shrimp with invisible chorizo), and the calabacitas en chorizo (a watery gloop that confused me both visually and psychologically).However, do order the pastor de trompo (spit-roasted pork with refreshing pineapple relish), the smoky halibut taco (with yuzu relish and chipotle mayonnaise), any of delectably-charred bistec tacos, and the chicken mole taco (sweet dark shredded chicken). For dessert, do yourself a massive favor and order the Mexican donuts. These churro-like balls of fried, fluffy joy are not overly sweet and taste magical when dunked in the semi-sweet chocolate sauce.
rsz_img_0064.jpgrsz_img_0074.jpgThough más can overwhelm with its taco menu, I can appreciate the variety. Some tacos need refinement and trimming, but many others are tasty and interesting. Don't dine here if you're a taco traditionalist, but if you're looking for a low-key restaurant in the West Loop, some of the kitchen's creations are worth trying.

800 W. Washington Blvd.
Chicago, IL 60607

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Nikki / July 28, 2015 12:49 PM

I agree that the Mexican donuts are a must-try. I really enjoyed them with the caramel sauce and fruit preserves they are served with as well.

I would like to recommend the grouper taco with watermelon salsa if available.

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Feature Thu Dec 31 2015

The State of Food Writing

By Brandy Gonsoulin

In 2009, food blogging, social media and Yelp were gaining popularity, and America's revered gastronomic magazine Gourmet shuttered after 68 years in business. Former Cook's Illustrated editor-in-chief Chris Kimball followed with an editorial, stating that "The shuttering of Gourmet reminds...
Read this feature »

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