The New York Times gives a glowing review to Green Zebra, which it says raises the stea stakes in vegetarian cuisine. Like Spring before it, this latest invention of Shawn McClain, Esquire's 2001 Chef of the Year, features interior design by Francois Geneve and cheese considered more valuable than gold. Outstanding vegetarian food is hardly a contradiction in Chicago, however, thanks to the likes of Chicago Diner, Soul Vegetarian East and the many, many wonders of Devon Street.