Gapers Block has ceased publication.

Gapers Block published from April 22, 2003 to Jan. 1, 2016. The site will remain up in archive form. Please visit Third Coast Review, a new site by several GB alumni.
 Thank you for your readership and contributions. 

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Monday, October 25

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Merge

Another downtown steakhouse? Well, yes, but damn, is this place ever good. With a menu dedicated to seafood and dry-aged steaks (Chef Burke commissioned a salt cave for aging underneath the restaurant), Primehouse lends some substance to the stylish new James Hotel. Shellfish from the raw bar, served on a lazy susan of lemons and crushed ice, was impeccibly fresh, although the lobster was perhaps a touch limp. Gazpacho with crab was spicy, refreshing, wonderful. The steaks? Par excellence, and they will rival the best you'll eat in your life. (Forget the syrupy bottled sauces that arrive with your steaks; what is this, Ponderosa?) Cocktails are innovative, maybe gimmicky (leather-infused Maker's Manhattan?), but they work. Not cheap.

 
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