Restaurant Tue Mar 25 2008

Ras Dashen: Ethiopian Specials

I'd been to Ras Dashen many times before, always loving the Ethiopian food and the intimacy of their deep narrow storefront, but my last visit raised the bar to a whole new level. The vegetarian combo lets you pick several items from a few areas on the menu, but make sure to focus in on the specials, either pumpkin or mushrooms. The night I last went, the kitchen was cooking up both. The soft pumpkin held a clean, smooth taste. The mushrooms were the prize – deep, tender and rich with balsamic flavor like a steak bathed in a rich sauce. A usual favorite, yellow split peas were creamy and mild as usual. A whole lentil version of miser wat was full of flavor and hearty. Our server reminded us to eat the injera beneath what was left of our veggie combinations. Try the coffee for a boost; it's quite rich and powerful, served with grounds in a decorated vessel. They offer vegan ice cream for dessert. Full disclosure: Ras Dashen co-sponsored the Veggie Bike and Dine in 2006, which I co-produce. 5846 N Broadway St. (773) 506-9601. El: Red Line to Thorndale. Bus: 36 Broadway.

- Chris Brunn