Restaurant Wed Jul 01 2009

Jumping the Menu at Taxim

By Chris Brunn

When I first spotted Taxim in Wicker Park, I noticed small and quaint tables tucked into a narrow storefront on a historic stretch of Milwaukee Avenue. The look made me think of a relaxing bistro - where you'd duck in off the street to sip a glass of wine and slowly eat a meal. But would anything on the menu be vegan? That's not a question I like to ask when I don't want to turn away. This was a place I wanted to try for its captivating appearance alone. With a little gentle asking, perhaps they'd do something vegan for me and a friend.

This was few months ago. I promptly gave Taxim a try - and then filed away my review without posting it. I'd been waiting for resolution on a simple detail - how to describe the seating in their window. It turned out to be, apparently, Turkish folding tray tables. Here are my first impressions from that April evening.

I asked what the kitchen recommended for vegan. None of the main courses on the evening I visited were vegan. Our server was quick to suggest putting together six of the meze (appetizers) from the evening's menu. There would be slight modifications, but they could easily be prepared vegan. She suggested we take two items at a time for three courses, which was more than enough food, and quite a diverse selection. One of the staff called my friend and I the "nicest vegans." What does that mean to me? Kitchens seem quite willing to accommodate, just as long as you ask nicely.

From the cold menu (Visited on April 10. Menu dated April 9):

Rokasalata: baby arugula, red cress, lemon-mint vinaigrette, without the cheese. This tasted brilliantly peppery, with just the right amount of arugula.

Revithia: pureed chickpeas, garlic, and lemon. Think of a very savory hummus that's garnished with sautéed fresh green chickpeas, which give a nice crunch.

Piperies: roasted seasonal peppers, very tender. Served with capers, garlic confit, minus cheese.

Olives: house-marinated Kalamata olives... full of salty flavor, like any good Kalamata should be, and served in a bit of oil.

From the hot menu:

Faki: Greek green lentil soup and a balsamic reduction, without the feta. The balsamic was subtle, and the soup was more thick than liquid. A fork served just fine. The lentils were nicely tender and well seasoned.

Bamies: baby okra, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh coriander and olive oil. The okra was best eaten right away, while it was still piping hot. The heat amplified the fresh green flavor of the tiny okra.

Taxim, 1558 N. Milwaukee Ave., (773) 252-1558. El: Blue to Damen/Milwaukee. Bus: 50 Damen, 56 Milwaukee, 72 North.