Restaurant Tue Sep 29 2009

Brunch @ The Publican

The Publican has garnered much acclaim for its minimalist, meat-centric fare. And this approach to dining certainly doesn't stop at dinner. Sunday brunch at the Publican is all about meat: pork, chicken and fish (but mostly pork, like the bacon at left) are featured in almost every dish.

Sausage, fried chicken and plenty of side orders of bacon appeared on our table, but I was craving something lighter and ordered the smoked trout, which came with rye toast and a dish of chive fromage blanc as well as a salad of arugula, onions, and sun gold tomatoes. The fish was smoky and moist, and the clean, slightly sweet salad nicely balanced out the rich cheese.

Actually, there are several vegetarian options on the menu, especially in the "Sides" section, and it's not at all difficult to put together a full meal with two of these side dishes. The ricotta & vidalia onion tarte tatin (pictured at left) was billed as "small" but along with a few slices of the thick-cut Publican bacon, it turned into a hearty breakfast.

It does help to love meat if you're eating at the Publican, but their Sunday brunch will appeal to more than the dedicated carnivore. The design of the restaurant itself is, like the food, simple but satisfying, and it's worth a trip just to appreciate the space. I'm looking forward to going back for dinner, and a whole new array of meat choices, as soon as I can.

— Dana Currier / Comments (2)