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Openings Fri Mar 09 2012
Opening: Ada Street
"Would you like one of our housemade jello shots?"
Not exactly what I expected from a newly opened bistro tucked back in the industrial corridor near the Hideout. Ada Street is the latest restaurant from the guys behind DMK and Fishbar and judging on table availability during their first week, it will be as hot as its sister spots.
More after the jump...
After entering three doors (one very speakeasy-esque complete with a iron clad peep hole), you'll find the host stand, and once there, are offered their complimentary drink of the evening. Last night's selection was a jello shot, more appropriately a gelée cocktail inspired by the aviation. After being led past the house wine cellar and a wall of vinyl, guests are allowed to pause there to make a selection for the evening's soundtrack, the restaurant itself opens into a small warehouse space, with dinner seating for 30 and bar that seats maybe 12. It's a tiny spot.
Granted, I sat at the bar, but it seems to me that Ada's strength rests in it's cocktails and bar bites. Cocktails, developed by Tim Lacy (formerly Drawing Room), come off beautifully and at $10 each, it's easy to get a good sampling of what he's working with. Highlights from the drink list included All Tomorrow's Parties, Tangled Up in Blue, and Bird on a Wire all named for (just guessing here) vinyls we could have chosen for the evening. Last night Miles Davis and Gypsy Kings were on rotation, but it could have just as easily been the Velvet Underground, Dylan or Leonard Cohen.
The song naming doesn't extend to the food menu, thankfully, which I think just cannot get away with the same kind of whimsey that drink menus can. A creamy cold, salmon tartare sprinked with chives and roe is fantastic, as was the housemade ricotta spiked with red chilies served over heavily peppered crositini. We finished with the brioche donuts, served alongside a port wine caramel that served as a nice sugary, boozy finish to the meal. And despite a slight misstep with underdone brussel sprouts (they should never crunch), the rest of the menu looks promising. With every plate save one priced under $14, I'll be back for the Crespelle, a ricottoa and spinach filled crepe, and for southern fried quail with sauteed greens and bacon gravy.
Ada Street is open Monday through Sunday at 6pm. Reservations can be made at Urbanspoon.
Ada Street
1664 N Ada Street
(773) 697-7069
Gerald Murray / March 13, 2012 5:08 AM
great article