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Review Fri Jul 24 2015

Unconventional Disappointment at Bohemian House

rsz_img_0061.jpgI first dined at Bohemian House in River North last year, and my overwhelmingly positive experience with the food and service inspired me to return again. Which was unfortunate, since my recent experience showcased a water-downed menu with lackluster execution.

The appetizer knackwurst sausage was decent--nothing overwhelming exciting or memorable--but I wouldn't get it again. The salt and vinegar chips were surprisingly good--sour, salty, and just a whiff of bacon smoke all over. Hidden underneath kale, the Chicken Paprikash with yogaball-sized dumplings--or grilled chicken in thick paprika roux--tasted like muddled disappointment. Either the sauce or the chicken lacked salt and acid, though I really couldn't tell which one.

rsz_2img_0062.jpgFortunately, the perfectly-cooked pork schnitzel sandwich--topped with a fried egg and Kohlrabi slaw--was incredibly juicy and crispy. However, the actual schnitzel sat atop a semi-burnt Kaiser roll slice, which ended up soggy and uneaten. For dessert, there was a strawberry kolacky or dark chocolate custard.

If I hadn't dined at Bohemian House before, the food would be decent, maybe even good. I don't readily eat Central European food (the Czech insist they're not Eastern European), so rye, mustard, and pickled things excite my palate. The restaurant truly is unique in style and culinary offering, but delicious memories of Boho's potential left me a disappointed diner.

Bohemian House
11 W Illinois St.
312-955-0439

 
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Feature Thu Dec 31 2015

The State of Food Writing

By Brandy Gonsoulin

In 2009, food blogging, social media and Yelp were gaining popularity, and America's revered gastronomic magazine Gourmet shuttered after 68 years in business. Former Cook's Illustrated editor-in-chief Chris Kimball followed with an editorial, stating that "The shuttering of Gourmet reminds...
Read this feature »

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Drive-Thru is the food and drink section of Gapers Block, covering the city's vibrant dining, drinking and cooking scene. More...
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Editor: Robyn Nisi, rn@gapersblock.com
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