Gapers Block published from April 22, 2003 to Jan. 1, 2016. The site will remain up in archive form. Please visit Third Coast Review, a new site by several GB alumni.
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Because the first weekend of any New Year can be filled with detoxing and relaxing from the holiday wacky train, we'd like to give away a few pairs of tickets to the "Chocolate Around the World" exhibit at the Field Museum, which ends January 8.
Send us an email by Tuesday, January 3 at noon with your name, mailing address, and your favorite type of chocolate. Tickets courtesy of Green and Black's.
— Robyn Nisi / Comments (1)
"The Porthole" is arguably the most picturesque of The Aviary's cocktail vessels. The cocktail chefs at Grant Achatz's bar unscrew the side of the shallow, circular teapot-like flask to compose beautiful arrays of fruit, fresh herbs and other botanicals that flavor both hot and cold drinks. It's currently being used for an apple brandy cider flavored with fresh apple slices, white verjus, orange peel and cinnamon, among other ingredients.
Crucial Detail, the company that makes most of the specialized contraptions, silverware and vessels for Alina, Next and The Aviary, sells some of those items directly to the public. It has gotten enough inquiries about purchasing the Porthole that it has decided to acquiesce and make it a consumer edition. If you're interested, email info@crucialdetail.com with "Porthole" in the subject line to be notified when it's available. No word on price, but Crucial Detail expects it to be ready to ship in early summer 2012.
— Andrew Huff
Renee Rendler-Kaplan shares an important reminder in the Drive-Thru flickr pool. Have a happy and safe new year!
— Andrew Huff
Now that we're in the final stretches of the year, here are a few of the best things that were eaten (or sipped) by the Drive-Thru staff.
I was quite smitten with the Tour of Thailand menu at Next--especially the beef cheek curry. As skeptical as I am of popular places, the dish was so elegant and clean that I can't bring myself to order curry anywhere else. Ever again.
Another thing that comes to mind is the appetizer pizza bread at Sabatino's. I've eaten at this place a million times in the last year as it's become a go-to birthday and special occasion destination for my circle. While most of the menu items are simply decent (and even unspectacular), the small slices of marinara and melted cheese on Italian bread that land on your table before you've even ordered make what's to come of your meal seem as if you've landed a seat at the city's best spaghetti joint.
Let's see what others had to say.
Laura Sant: A very hungover brunch at the Bedford - duck confit gravy over grits and one of those amazing bloody marys with kimchee. Best hangover cure ever!
Alan Lake: I've narrowed it down to three: the fresh hearts of palm salad with pink peppercorn vinaigrette at Davanti Enoteca, which is surprising to me, as I've worked with fresh hearts of palm quite a bit - but this simple presentation was close to flawless, and I'd never expect it at this restaurant. Then there's the Tom Yam Beef Ball & Tender Soup at Aroy Thai - a perfect balance of sour, spicy and rich. Lastly, the crispy tripe taco and cibolittas (grilled baby spring onions) from the charola at La Chaparrita, drenched in their avocado salsa.
Andie Thomalla: Finding a transcendent version of a familiar foodstuff is one of my favorite eating experiences -- and this year I was lucky enough to stumble across several homey dishes with stratospheric flavors: the garlic bread at Fish Bar (the oysters were super as well, but this simple side with its creamy center, crispy edges, and featherweight down of parmesan cheese stole the entire meal). The fries at Three Aces smothered in a deeply flavorful Bolognese sauce (the ultimate hangover food?), rich, funky-yet-sweet Gruyere donuts on the dessert menu at Longman & Eagle. And just in case anyone was wondering, the browned butter gnocchi at A Tavola are as simple as they ever have been - and still the absolute best in the city.
Sometimes it's the ingredient itself that stands out, as with the Burrata appetizer at Spacca Napoli - it's just cheese, with a few pieces of griddled bread, a drizzle of olive oil, and a pinch of sea salt. And yet it's so, so much more than just cheese. And finally, at the other end of the spectrum are the mechanically precise, carefully plated, and seemingly scientifically balanced dishes that stick with you because they're so very out of the ordinary. Like, for example, the Baja shrimp bruschetta at GT Fish and Oyster, where cilantro, grapefruit and toasted pistachio give the avocado and shrimp lightness you never knew they had. Or the foie gras torchon at LM, the world's best use of negative space on a plate, where the distance between accompaniments, like a summery strawberry basil compote and autumnal red onion confit, feels like a literal breath of fresh air. Whew. Cheers to eating up 2012!
Andrew Huff: Best cocktail: "Bitter" at The Aviary. Partly for the floor show -- the highball glass is brought to the table atop a smoldering chunk of bourbon barrel, holding in a dose of smoke, which adds its flavor to the drink once it's poured in -- and partly for the drink's smokey-sweet bitterness. I had it in the depths of summer heat, but could imagine how comforting it would be in the cold winter months.
Most memorable dessert: Chimney cake from Chimney Cake Island. Crispy and light and a lot of fun to eat.
Most interesting crash and burn: The Black Sheep was open barely three months, and what a bizarre couple months it was. After getting mixed reviews for its contemporary menu, Chef-owner James Toland took to social media to attack critics (while claiming his account had been "hacked"), lost a partner and fired his chefs, and suffered two staff walkouts before abruptly shutting the doors. Cinnamon and I had a great meal there, then watched in horror and fascination as the drama unfolded.
— Robyn Nisi
Because the holidays are all about giving, we've got an extra holiday drink column this week. As you know, New Year's Eve is this weekend, and more than any other holiday, it's an opportunity to wow guests with delicious libations. Fortunately, earlier this year Charles Joly of The Drawing Room did a seminar on holiday cocktails at the Museum of the American Cocktail in New Orleans, so he was fully prepared when I talked with him at his cozy subterranean lounge.
"Unless you're going to have a bartender working, it's best to keep it simple," Joly says. "There's nothing worse than getting stuck at your kitchen island when you're trying to entertain people and you should be hanging out with your friends. You can make really interesting selections with just a little bit of planning that don't keep you tied down. And we're not in college -- it's time to take the 7Up bottle off the countertop and, you know, a bottle of flat club soda and a handle of Smirnoff that's been sitting in there since last New Year's."
— Andrew Huff
No plans for New Years Eve? Don't feel like fighting the masses for expensive party tickets and limited taxis? No, worries. Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams has just the thing. This year, Jeni's (based in Ohio and delivering quality, artisan scoops) is suggesting that you switch things up. Don't go out, stay in. Find relief from the mayhem and ring in the new year by toasting party-by-the-pint sized signature flavor collections from Jeni's instead. With most pints priced at $12-$14 per pop, the sublime holiday collection set can be shipped directly to you, complete with 6 pints of ice cream for a steal at $70. Talk about reasonable and delicious. Be sure to check out their holiday video by Lange Studio, just in case you're still not convinced. A pinch of holidays, a dash of good company, just add ice cream and mix well!
— Katie Johnson
The Alliance Française de Chicago has just released their Being a Chef Series schedule for 2012. Madelaine Bullwinkel has a variety of classes on food and wine pairing, cooking and baking - among them a lesson on making Galette des Rois, the classic dessert for l'Epiphanie. You'll make both the French version as well as the American version, the Louisiana king cake. Just don't choke on that little plastic baby.
— Laura Sant
During the month of December, Gapers Block will be featuring a weekly holiday drink column with a different guest bartender/mixologist. Today's recipes come from Stephen Cole of the Barrelhouse Flat.
In the last of Drive-Thru's series of holiday drinks by some of Chicagoland's finest mixologists, we have Stephen Cole, yet another bartender with a culinary background (California Culinary Academy, and Michelin Star restaurant Drolma in Barcelona). Invited to join the opening staff of the Violet Hour, Chicago's über craft cocktail emporium, Stephen helped lead them and Chicago into the budding world of craft cocktails. His kitchen talent transferred seamlessly to the bar ,and Stephen quickly became revered by patrons and peers alike.
Four years later finds Stephen presiding over the newly opened Barrelhouse Flat, honoring his strong Sicilian cooking roots and his Dad's annual wine- and beer-making events. Barrelhouse Flat is meant to be a place for everyone; a place to unite the community, toast new opportunities, commiserate a loss or share a mutual affinity of all things libatious.
With this drink in hand, you'll have a jump start to a most happy New Year for you and yours.
Hot Holiday Punch
This punch was created for all of those people that buy a bottle of Carpano Antica for use in a Manhattan and don't want it to go bad.
1 bottle Rittenhouse Rye
1 bottle Carpano Antica
1 gallon apple cider (local is best)
3 cinnamon sticks
5 cloves
10 dashes of Angostura
Step 1. Pour 2 oz Rittenhouse, 1 oz Carpano Antica, and 2 dashes Angostura over ice.
Step 2. Drink.
Step 3. While drinking step 1, heat to near boil: 1 gallon local apple cider, cinnamon sticks and cloves.
Step 4. Remove from heat and add the rest of the bottle of Rittenhouse, Carpano Antica, and 8 dashes of Angostura.
Step 5. By now step 1 is finished, just in time to start step 4.
— Alan Lake
Image by Mel Hill Photography from the Drive-Thru Flickr Pool. If you've got eatin' to do, photograph it and send it to us!
Whatever you're celebrating in the coming days--Christmas, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, Solstice, my brother's birthday--celebrate happily and wisely.
— Robyn Nisi
Of all the Top Chef contestants this season, one stands out for me, and it's not out of my love for Chicago and its ilk: Sarah Grueneberg of Spiaggia. She seems a lot more earnest and unassuming than the other contestants, and while several of them have rolled their eyes at Grueneberg's Texas roots in past episodes, I think it's because she just seems so nice, which basically means people think they can steamroll her. If you feel the same way, you can tell Sarah in person January 21, when she and Spiaggia head chef Tony Mantuano hold a cooking class/demo at the restaurant (980 N Michigan). You'll get your own food and wine to chow while watching the chefs do a little in-kitchen challenge similar to the show, then learn how to make it. Cost $125; call 312-280-2750 to reserve.
— Robyn Nisi
It's not every day you get a press release about a new kitchen appliance, let alone one as specialized as a motorized potato grater. But if you're a fan of Eastern European dishes like kugelis or latkes, you'll want to check out Grandma Ann's Potato Grater, created by Burr Ridge native Brian Vaisnoras. Based on his grandmother's handmade grater and designed by Vaisnoras and his engineer brother with her input, the $229 machine has a cast-aluminum body surrounding a 1/2-horsepower motor, a hinged press arm with a comfy-looking grip, and a 2.75-quart stainless steel bowl.
According to Grandma Ann's, the grater may also be used for other vegetables, such as carrots and squash, or for hard cheeses. The grater is on backorder thanks to strong coverage in the Polish press, but promises to ship in January. More info is available on Grandma Ann's website.
— Andrew Huff / Comments (1)
Better late than never, right? Right guys? Now that you've had a chance to ponder the vagaries of roasted squab and rack of elk, here are three short thoughts on this week's "Top Chef":
Typical. I publicly state my support for cheftestant Heather Terhune and she goes all crazy-eyes mean girl in this week's episode. This doesn't necessarily mean I'm not still rooting for her, as with all the Chicago chefs (several of whom were on the bottom this week for offenses like lack of cohesion on the plate and...sweet potato fries). But this week's episode veered into sort of uncomfortable territory, as chef Beverly Kim was helplessly put up for scrutiny over she and Heather's five-spice duck and polenta. Basically, we saw further proof of what we already know: Heather's tough and Beverly cries a lot, both attributes thrown into sharper relief by the editing, which, as with Angry Dale's wall-punching back in season four, eschewing food porn shots and overly descriptive commentary at Judges' Table for aggressive chef-on-chef confrontations. (What IS it with this season? Is a poorly seared scallop just not the drama it used to be, Bravo??)
After watching that tequila quickfire, I found myself wondering if it would even be possible to be a cheftestant (or a chef, for that matter) if you're a teetotaler. Is lusty enjoyment of the fermented beverages just a self-selecting mechanism for success in the kitchen? Or is it just the only way to get through those nights of 200 covers in a cramped, hot kitchen? You tell me, Chicago.
Undercooked venison = THE WORST. Shudder. Despite all the Heather-Beverly drama, it was no surprise to me to see Dakota and Nyesha pack their knives. Though I will miss Dakota's enormous, dangerous-looking earrings.
— Andie Cavedo
As head bartender at Sable Kitchen & Bar, this former Violet Hour veteran brings a foodie's flair to the craft cocktail movement. A culinary school grad, Ryan became enamored with bartending while working as a cook at the molecular gastronomy restaurant Moto. Owner Homaro Cantu wanted a cook behind the bar to explore new flavor profiles. Enter Ryan.
A fan of bright, loud, vibrant flavors, Ryan feels his food background gives him a heightened awareness of the relationships between sweet, sour, bitter and booze. His signature is egregious amounts of bitters, bold whiskies and cool savory ingredients that propel a cocktail to the next level.
Winter Whisper (Served hot)
"The idea comes from a cocktail we feature every summer called Speaking in Tongues which has mezcal, fresh strawberries and some deep spice from amaro; this is a modified winter version featuring the tacky, candy-like flavor of freeze-dried strawberries."
1 oz Siete Leguas Tequila Reposado
1 oz Luxardo Amaro
1/2 oz fresh lemon juice
1/2 oz dried strawberry syrup*
2 dashes strawberry-allspice bitters
Preheat Irish Coffee glass or mug with hot water. Heat ingredients over a double boiler, do not heat directly. Dump hot water from glass, add ingredients, top with 3 oz very hot water. Garnish with a tiny pinch of freshly ground allspice.
*Dried Strawberry syrup:
2 cups freeze-dried strawberries
2 cups sugar
Blend dried strawberries and sugar in high-speed blender until well combined. a
Add 2 cups hot water, stir to combine. Strain and chill out.
Cheers!
Picture by Andrea Donadio.
— Alan Lake
Picture by swanksalot from the Drive-Thru Flickr Pool, which is participating in another frickin' cookie exchange this weekend. Submit your pics, please...
— Robyn Nisi
'Tis the season for sharing rare treats. A couple of upcoming events give you the opportunity to sample beer, bourbon and more.
Tonight: Gapers Block's Holiday Party
Yes, I'm tooting our own horn. Tonight's GB Holiday Party at the Black Rock, 3614 N. Damen Ave., will feature complementary gin from Evanston-based FEW Spirits, as well as Bluecoat Gin, Vieux Carré Absinthe and Q tonic water from 7pm to 10pm. There might also be a bit of FEW whiskey around, if you're lucky. RSVP on Facebook.
Friday: Big Hugs Release Party
Half Acre Beer will celebrate the third release of its Big Hugs Imperial Stout with a release party at the Blind Robin, 853 N. Western Ave., Friday night at 8pm. The official release for the beer, available in 20oz. bombers or 64oz. growlers, is Sunday, Dec. 18 from 11am to 6pm at the brewery, 4257 N. Lincoln Ave. (You might also enjoy this Chicago magazine Q&A with Half Acre's label designer, Phineas X. Jones, who also does illustration work for us here at GB.)
Saturday: Bloodshot Records Holiday Whiskey Extravaganza
OK, this is more of a music event, but there's burgers and whiskey involved. Bloodshot Records' Holiday Whiskey Extravaganza is this Saturday at Cobra Lounge, 235 N. Ashland Ave., at 9pm. Whitey Morgan & the 78s, Kurt of the Deadstring Brothers and Lydia Loveless perform, but from a culinary perspective the big news is that ManBQue will be cooking up "Bloodshot Burgers" served with a Founders beer and and a shot of Jim Beam Devils Cut whiskey. The event is also a benefit for the the Casa Catalina Basic Human Needs Center in Back of the Yards; donate food and receive a special gift from Bloodshot. The event is free with RSVP on Do312. 21+
— Andrew Huff
Looking for something fun to do before you trudge off to Aunt Millie's for the holiday? S&M's Underground has spots left for meals tomorrow and Saturday; for a $55 suggested fee, you'll get home-brewed beer served with pork, duck, rabbit, and a lemon tart to finish.
— Robyn Nisi
From its bare-bones website, I was getting a definite basement bar vibe from the new Highball Lounge, located above Orange on the western edge of River North -- utilitarian bar, basic U-shaped booths, nothing much else. As with the proverbial book and cover, however, you can't necessarily judge a bar by its website. While the lounge has been technically open since November, I stopped by for a reception last week and was pleasantly surprised by the intimate but playful space.
The long, lean lounge has a speakeasy feel to it (enhanced in part by the lack of street-level signage -- the ambiguity is intentional for the time being, according to manager Anthony Williams, but a banner and lit sign are on their way), all low lights and 60's-inspired decor, with a bank of floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over Clark Street lending an openness to the space. The menu is true to the bar's name, primarily focused on the highball, with such spirit-and-mixer favorites as the Moscow Mule, Pimm's Cup, and the Mai Tai, the last being delightfully sweet and sour, a burnished golden color (none of that pink, "MTV Spring Break" nonsense, thank you) and garnished with a garden's worth of bright mint.
— Andie Cavedo
During the month of December, Gapers Block will be featuring a weekly holiday drink column with a different guest bartender/mixologist. Today's drink comes from Paul McGee of the Whistler.
Chicago is lucky to have someone of this caliber slinging our drinks. McGee is a veteran of the Venetian, Bellagio and MGM Grand hotels in Las Vegas and was the Corporate Mixologist for the Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group. Since 2008, Paul has been a partner in the Whistler (my favorite drinking den) and was named TimeOut Chicago's Best Bartender 2010. The Whistler was also included in GQ's list of The 25 Best Cocktail Bars in America last year.
While playing culinary sherpa to a group of 12 visiting chefs during last May's National Restaurant Association show at McCormick Place, our first stop was the Whistler for an example of what I consider to be the leader of the craft cocktail movement in Chicago; they left duly blown away.
McGee prides himself on the Whistler's approachable and affordable cocktail menu. It doesn't take a chef to appreciate the nuances of Paul's cocktails. His palate is remarkable; his drinks, sublime. If you haven't experienced his prowess, I couldn't think of a better holiday gift to give yourself.
Mulled Apple Cider, a la Paul McGee
1 quart apple cider (McGee uses Seedling Farms Classic Apple Cider)
10 cloves, whole
10 cinnamon sticks, broken
2 pods star anise, whole
3 tablespoons light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg, freshly grated
The peel of one orange
Heat all ingredients to a simmer, strain out solids. Add one ounce spirit of choice to five ounces of cider.
"Starting with Michigan's own Seedling Classic Cider, I add cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, brown sugar, and orange peel and stir over heat until the entire room smells like inside of an apple pie shop. This year I made a slight recipe update to include star anise; I wanted a little bit more depth and complexity, and the herb's flavors add that perfect extra layer.
At The Whistler, we serve the cider with your spirit of choice: scotch, bourbon, rum or apple brandy. When I'm in the mood for something on the sweet side, I sip mine with rum, while a nice smoky scotch is perfect when I'm looking for something more savory. However, my go-to spiking agent is bourbon -- the booze's vanilla notes go so well with the mulling spices in the cider. Complete with a cinnamon stick garnish."
— Alan Lake
I went to Jam for the first time at its new Logan Square location, and it was a fabulous event.
After sitting and talking to the owner, Jerry Suqi, my attention was brought to the awesome-ness of the decor. My eyes were drawn to the walls. Chicago-based design duo INDO stenciled the walls, which were modeled after the ceiling.
The food, overseen by ex-Charlie Trotter's and North Pond chef Jeffrey Mauro, used to be just brunch, but Jam has now expanded its offerings to include blue-plate and nightly dinner specials. Each meal at Jam is treated with the highest level of veneration and culinary craftsmanship, all while maintaining an accessible approach and a commitment to affordability. I could truly taste the time spent on each dish.
— Ryan Frieson
Image by deep blue skies from the Drive-Thru Flickr Pool. Submit your pics!
— Robyn Nisi
Chicago-based food blog Lottie + Doof is four days into its annual 12 Days of Cookies feature. Mmm, rugelach.
— Laura Sant
Half the fun of recapping "Top Chef" every week is coming up with a headline pun. I do it for you, people! As always, three thoughts on this week's episode.
The Chicago chefs were safe this week, with Heather Terhune of Sable even pulling out the win (and a new car) for her dessert -- a mild victory, given that the judges seemed less impressed with the dish than they were disappointed with most of the other components of the four-course Cattle Baron's Ball service. (Not to be confused with the Robber Barons' Ball. That was last week.) Heather seems to have made some enemies this week, with a few chefs complaining to the camera about her bossiness. So if we're organizing camps, allow me to plant myself in her favor. I like this chick. I like that she's a realistic-looking, experienced, kitchen-savvy professional woman (who looks DAMN GOOD for being 40). I like the food at Sable -- not that you wouldn't like just about anything they set down in front of you after a few of those cocktails -- whew! Of all the Chicago talent, Heather seems the most mature and well-rounded in her skill. For now, I hope she goes far.
Speaking of people I like, Ty-lor Boring is kind of great. I was really poised to dislike him based on the way he spells his name, but now I'm starting to think that maybe if MY last name was Boring, I'd want to spice things up in the first name as well. It's like the inverted mullet of names -- party up front, boring in the back. Zing! The way he shouldered the blame for the unevenly cooked steaks, and didn't whimper at judges' table about the heat, his lack of sleep, or the spurting blood coming from his hand the night before -- highly respectable.
I don't know if anyone else has this experience, but I often feel like the dishes that come out of "Top Chef," while beautiful and innovative and often mouth-watering on screen, are more than a little inaccessible -- and not just because there's a panel of glass and diodes between me and them. Sometimes I just can't taste with my mind's eye (with my mind's tongue? Ew) what these dishes are supposed to be like for the diner. So while the judges were super-unhappy with this week's fare, its predictability, its lack of risk -- I was fully enjoying the sense memory of the potatoes au gratin my Mom would make for Sunday night steak dinners with my grandparents growing up, and the mushroom, asparagus salad that she'd make with any leftover meat. Sometimes safety is a good thing -- comfort food is comforting for a reason, and that reason is rarely avant garde. Though if you mess it up, as Whitney did with her undercooked gratin, it becomes pretty dangerous pretty quickly.
— Andie Cavedo / Comments (2)
The Greater Chicago Food Depository (GCFD) kicked off its annual holiday food drive today in hopes of collecting over 1 million pounds of food this holiday season to serve the 650,000 folks who rely on GCFD for meals throughout the year. To help inspire those of us who like a more give and take relationship, GCFD has partnered with a few local spots to encourage you to donate.
At Custom House, a recently-ish new concept on the space transformed it into a more urban tavern, with upscale precision under the helm of Chef Perry Hendrix. Bring a nonperishable can of food in when you dine and you'll receive a free appetizer or dessert, of your choice to accompany your lunch or dinner. And since their newest pastry chef studied under Mindy Segel, I suggest you opt for dessert. From December 8-December 25.
— Joanna Kanakis
Tucked beneath the billowing balconies of the Aqua Building, the Hotel Radison quietly opened up a new dining spot for their hotel patrons, corporate types of the Aon Tower, and the occasional architecture-geek tourist. With latte grey banquets, eggplant purple booths and pearly white table tops, Filini is draped in stark 21st century decor that somehow manages to provide the perfect backdrop for its warm country Italian cuisine. I was invited by Filini to see what Chef Christian Fantoni, who hails from Northern Italy, was working with and judging by the courses that I preferred on the menu, it shows.
I slid into our five-foot-high backed booth and immediately felt oblivious to the world, or at least, to the rest of the restaurant. In fact, throughout the meal I kept feeling like I was sliding in and out of the hotel-ness of the place, mostly out.
I started with the burrata appetizer, and although we had to get through a bit of rougher cheese to get through to those sweet, creamy insides, it came nicely garnished with arugula, crisp cherry tomatoes, and slippery red peppers. The ribolatta, a so-called Tuscan bean soup with ham, sadly came with neither ham nor beans, more reminiscent of my mom's plain veggie soup.
Chef has a nice selection of Bruschettes which come in pairs, reasonably topped above a crostini. I opted for the Ceci, which came decked with arugula, wrinkly black olives, roasted red bell pepper, one big shave of Parmesan and anchovies. It was salty, crisp and you could actually bite it, without the remaining ingredients toppling onto your plate; a feat I find most bruschettes fail to achieve.
But really, the best way to judge an Italian restaurant rests in one question. Do you make your own pastas? I know this is a corporate place and all, but can any self-respecting Italian serve factory-made pasta? The answer irrefutably should be no. Fantoni's pastas were toothsome, appropriately dressed and fantastic. Properly piled papardelle arrived with a dark wild boar ragu, and only after poking around the dish for a solid 10 minutes did I discover what gave it that iconic depth: the pasta had been laced with cocoa powder. The garganelli, tossed in a mascarpone and white truffle sauce with salty prosciutto and fresh radicchio, was a well-balanced sweet and salty bite. I dared not venture into their secondi part of the menu, since I felt perfectly sated with pasta, but if I had, the olive oil-poached halibut with brussel sprouts, wild mushrooms and macadamia nuts would have been a good bet.
I finished with the Torta, a ricotta and mascarpone Italian cheesecake accompanied by pistachio gelato and candied fruits. After the heavy creaminess of the pasta, it was perhaps a bit heavy, but worth it.
Filini doesn't have the authenticity of some other fine spots in Chicago, but when you're chained to corporate suppliers, how can your arugula -ased dish be as good as one that uses local farms? Despite my wishing it wasn't so, Filini is a hotel restaurant, but one that is pursuing cuisine in an honest, authentic way. It also has a very charming bar, which if you sit nearer to the windows, and away from the two, very out-of-place flat screen TVs, it would be a great spot for an after dinner drink. Their bar menu is replete with wood-fired pizzas and a few star selections from the dinner menu.
Filini, Radisson Blu Aqua Hotel, Chicago
221 North Columbus Drive
312-477-0234
— Joanna Kanakis
During the month of December, Gapers Block will be featuring a weekly holiday drink column with a different guest bartender/mixologist. First up, the godfather of the Chicago craft cocktail craze, Adam Seger.
Seger is a Certified Culinary Professional and a Court of Master Sommeliers Advanced Sommelier as well as an alumnus of world-renowned restaurants TRU, Strasbourg's Michelin Star Chez Julien and The French Laundry. As Founder and Mixologist for Chicago-based hum Spirits Company, Adam takes a chef's approach at the bar.
Farm to glass never tasted so good. Nostrovia!
Holiday Mojito
Build in a heavy tumbler or double rocks glass
-Muddle 1/2 lime and a dozen mint leaves
-Add 2 tablespoons cranberry relish and a generous shot of hum Botanical Spirit
-Fill with ice, top with ginger ale and stir
-Garnish with a peppermint stick
Cranberry Martini
3/4 ounce citrus vodka
3/4 ounce sorbetto orange
3/4 ounce hum
3/4 ounce cranberry juice
3/4 ounce sour
Squeezed lime wedge
Shake/strain/chilled martini glass/splash bubbly.
Hot Buttered hum
Build in a pint or Irish Coffee glass
1.5 ounces hum
1 tablespoon butter
1.5 ounces maple syrup or brown sugar
Fill with hot water; add a cinnamon stick.
Next up, Paul McGee from the Whistler.
— Alan Lake / Comments (3)
Today is your last day to attend Renegade Craft Fair's 6th Annual Holiday Market Chicago. Held at the Pulaski Park Fieldhouse from 11am-6pm, the free-to-attend market features over 150 vendors selling their handmade goods, which make the perfect gifts for almost anyone on your list. Come for the shopping (and maybe even for the shopping soundtrack from CHIRP Radio, Reckless Records and Dusty Groove), but stay for the food, as a selection of local eateries will be on hand to supply you with some re-energizing noshes while you shop 'til you drop. Mana Food Bar and Flying Saucer provide the savories, while Black Dog Gelato, Puffs of Doom and Cheap Tart Bakery supply the sweets. Coming off a sugar high? Dark Matter Coffee has you covered, supplying you with a caffeine fix to get you through to the end. No sure how to get there? Pick up the free Renegade Holiday Trolley which will be making several stops along the way to and from the fair. The Pulaski Park Fieldhouse is located at 1419 W Blackhawk St Chicago, IL 60622. (312) 742-7559
— Katie Johnson
You have from now until 5pm today to get yourself over to the River East Art Center for this month's special edition of Dose Market, appropriately deemed by the Dosettes as HoliDose. Find great gifts for you and yours with 70 food and fashion vendors. Plus, make a charitable donation to Inspiration Corporation and get all your gifts perfectly wrapped by the design experts at Greer. For the foodies on your gift list, shop special edition cookies from Floriole's Sandra Holl, chocolate and confections from Truffle Truffle, barware from Dinner Party, Hoosier Mama pies, Honey Butter Fried Chicken, and so much more. While you browse, sip complimentary fizzy gin punch from Death's Door. Better hurry. You've only got a few more hours to get your HoliDose on. Tickets available at the door for $10. The River East Art Center is located at 435 E. Illinois St. (312) 321-1001
— Katie Johnson
Chef Matthias Merges, after 14 years as chef de cuisine at Charlie Trotter's, will finally have a restaurant of his own when Yusho opens this Saturday, Dec. 3, at 2853 N. Kedzie Ave.
The restaurant brings Japanese-inspired small plates to the Logan Square/Avondale area, with yakitori (or "grilled birds" on the menu), yasai (or grilled vegetables) and kushiyaki (grilled seafood and meat) battling for attention. The late-night menu, served from 10pm on, is a smaller collection focused on hangover-fighting dishes like twice-fried chicken, ramen with crispy pig tail and a duck egg, steamed beef buns and a daily soft-serve ice cream. In addition to a selection of wine and sake, a handful of cocktails are available to pair with your meal.
Yusho is open from 5pm to 2am; the kitchen closes at 1am. Call 773-904-8558 for reservations.
— Andrew Huff
Mark your calendars. You can meet the Girl and the Goat herself, Stephanie Izard, at the Book Cellar on December 17th. (Oh right, it's December already folks. Crazy. I know.) Pop on in for this local stop on the goat tour where Stephanie will be on hand, signing copies of her new cookbook, Girl in the Kitchen! It makes the perfect holiday gift. Or, go ahead, treat yourself. You deserve it.
Signing starts at 12 noon. The Book Cellar is located at 4736-38 N. Lincoln Ave. 773.293.2665 for more details.
— Katie Johnson
Image by KayOne73 from the Drive-Thru Flickr Pool, which wants you to add your food pictures, stat!
— Robyn Nisi
If you're a big spender, your New Year's Eve plans could get a lot more interesting. Posted tonight on Next Restaurant's Facebook page:
Here's something different for New Year's Eve: One Golden Ticket each to Next, the Aviary and the Office. Rather than get the tired champagne at midnight toast, why not rent out: Next for you and 61 friends; Aviary for you and 84 friends; the Office for you and 17 friends. You pick the friends, the music, the toast... let us make sure it's a genuine, once in a lifetime party. It won't be cheap, but these will be the best food and parties in the city. Email for pricing and details: NYE@nextrestaurant.com / NYE@theaviary.com. Serious inquiries only, please.
Next/Aviary/Ofice aren't the only buy-out options this New Year's Eve. Fish Bar is also available, if you win the eBay auction (opening bid is $5,000, with no bids as of 6pm Thursday.) However, as Next's Facebook manager said in the comments, "this will definitely cost more than Fish Bar :-)"
Photo by John Joh, under Creative Commons license.
— Andrew Huff
In the recent lifting of the ban on horse meat in the United States, the folks over at the Butcher and Larder Facebook page have been debating whether or not the meat would be popular. Some of the responses are funny ("I can finally have my 'Godfather'-themed meal"), some are disinterested, and others voice curiosity. Where do you fall on that spectrum? I have a hard enough time reconciling my love of animals with my love of the occasional steak, but there's no way I would touch a horse.
— Robyn Nisi / Comments (1)
The Chicago talent pool took another hit with this week's elimination of Chuy Valencia, for a poorly executed salmon and goat cheese dish. As always, three thoughts on this week's "Top Chef Texas."
It finally happened. Bravo created some sort of hybrid mutant super-show by combining cheftestants and a passel of Dallas housewives with this week's upper-crust progressive dinner party episode -- Top Dallas Real House-Chefs! We knew, deep down, this day was coming. But what could have been a slog through rich people behaving badly at the dinner table actually ended up more as a sort of class dialogue, as the chefs grinned through their teeth to obediently design dishes for couples who described themselves as "not adventurous," and whose lists of no-no ingredients included everything from cilantro (whaaa? In Texas?) to raspberries. Ty-lör summed up the chefs' general feeling saying, "This place smells like money. It smells nothing like my apartment." While the hosting couples were not exactly treated with absolute reverence (the camera relayed plenty of eye-rolls and blank stares as the hosts discussed everything from their 1,200-guest weddings to "making every calorie count" in the dessert courses -- Tom Colicchio increasing looked like he was about to implode from muted emotion), they still dictated the course(s) of the evening, and wise chefs played to their stated desires.
Which brings us to Chris Jones and his kale cigar. Despite all the rhetoric of innovation and originality with this appetizer, the Moto vet essentially gave us exactly what he knows -- the pulled pork Cuban cigar has been a menu mainstay there for as long as the edible menus. You could see him warming up his hostess, teasing her with the idea of familiar flavors that look like something else -- an idea she didn't seem particularly into. And it wasn't a bad notion, given the host's cigar cutter collection. But between grossing out the ladies (including judge Gail Simmons), being a bit challenging to eat, and not staying true to the ingredients that went into it, the cigar and Chris ended up on the bottom.
— Andie Cavedo
In 2009, food blogging, social media and Yelp were gaining popularity, and America's revered gastronomic magazine Gourmet shuttered after 68 years in business. Former Cook's Illustrated editor-in-chief Chris Kimball followed with an editorial, stating that "The shuttering of Gourmet reminds...
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