Gapers Block published from April 22, 2003 to Jan. 1, 2016. The site will remain up in archive form. Please visit Third Coast Review, a new site by several GB alumni. ✶ Thank you for your readership and contributions. ✶
Soul Vegetarian, the much-loved south side vegan eatery, has opened a second restaurant in Evanston called Life Vegan (1601 Simpson Street, phone 847-869-6379). The new restaurant will serve dishes similar to Soul Vegetarian, but will also add a 6am breakfast service (except Saturdays) for those of you who are looking for your fill of the good stuff.
A serene and mellow atmosphere, the humming murmur of conversation intermingled with soothing indie folk rock playing in the background, this could only be one place — the new Uncommon Ground in Edgewater.
Located at the corner of Devon and Glenwood, the new Uncommon Ground finds itself in the same corner as an ominously blinking police light. Apparently, owners Michael and Helen Cameron aren't deterred by the reputation of crime in the area. Although it was a Monday evening, the place was far from empty; by 8pm it was buzzing with patrons. Hip but casual, this is not a place to see and be seen, as the décor and design — mostly squares and rectangles, exposed brick, luxuriously long leather booths, and earth artwork (nature scenes in wooden frames) is far more interesting to look at than what people are wearing or doing.
The key at Uncommon Ground is cozy. My boyfriend and I were seated right next to a blazing fire; on an evening of blistering winds and rain this was startlingly appropriate. Candles burned brightly on the wooden tabletops all around us. Uncommon Ground is a good place for a conversation with an old friend, or a gathering of pals. I wouldn't say it's necessarily romantic, but socially inviting, yes. The demographic was varied, reflecting the diversity of the neighborhood: a few students, thirtysomethings, gay couples, even two cops on a break were enjoying the laid-back atmosphere.
If you don't give two shakes about that silly football game on Sunday, why not spend the day making Paczki (Polish-style Filled Doughnuts) with other foodies from LTH Forum? They're organizing a Paczki-making session at Delightful Pastries (5927 West Lawrence, phone 773-545-7215) where you will fry, glaze and fill your own dozen paczki with a number of enticing things (e.g. raspberry, custard, rose petal jelly). You will also take home some chrusciki (cruellers) as well. The event will start at 2pm and costs $15; registration deadline is today.
This Friday night is the ultimate foodie's dream--the Grand Chefs Gala, a benefit for the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation featuring the culinary prowess of Chicago's best chefs, among them "Top Chef"'s Dale Levitski, Aigre Doux's Mohammad Islam, and Pasticceria Natalina's own Natalie Zarzour. The $400 ticket will get you cocktails, hors d'Oeuvres, a four-course dinner and desserts; however, if you are like me and need to pay rent instead, you can opt to show up at 10pm for the $50 per person Afterparty, which allows you your fill of the dessert course, open bar and dancing.
• Thinking of Drinking reviews a wide range of ginger beers (part one, part two).
• If you're a foodie, you've probably already seen this, but just in case, Slice's list of regional pizza styles is excellent, and includes all three Chicago-indigenous styles (deep dish, stuffed and Chicago thin).
Have a new sweetie that you want to share Valentine's Day with, but not sure they're worth a $200 fancy pants feast? Or maybe you just want something a bit more low key than the fixed priced menus and disaffected waiters that most joints serve up on the officially sanctioned Day O' Luv. Bittersweet bakery is offering two seatings of a 3 course menu on the 14th for a mere $35 pp. Menu includes an organic greens, beets, and goat cheese salad, your choice of veggie gratin or lamb chops, molten chocolate cake and a glass of bubbly. With seatings at 5:30pm and 7:30pm, you can continue the evening at a swanky bar or back at your love shack with some sweet treats from the pastry case. Reservations are required. (773) 929-1100. Bittersweet Pastry Shop. 1114 W. Belmont Ave.
According to some less-obscure-than-you'd-think British formula, the third Monday in January (Blue Monday - not to be confused with the rockin' but still actually kind of depressing New Order tune) is always the most depressing day of the year. It has something to do with compounding accumulated debt with grey weather, number of days since Christmas, number of days since breaking your new year's resolution, etc. While it may be a week later, we're hardly in the clear, and if you're like me, you're in need of a little sunshine, metaphorical or otherwise.
Enter new food blog One Trick Pony, who, with her cooking photos and banter, is clearly anything but, and is sure to warm you up inside. And maybe even make you want to stay inside and attempt to cook a duck. (Or not.) Only a week in, and the author's kitchen has already seen many a good meal come through -- more, please! Add to the goodness some tips for Chicago groceries that range from Aldi to Joong Boo Market, and the following video, and you should be set to fight the winter blues for a long time to come.
When Golden Rise Bakery moved into Logan Square they immediately impressed me with their breads, sandwiches and high-quality coffee. However, I wasn't sure how quickly this family-owned business would find success on an often lonely strip of Diversey Avenue. I've been pleased to find Golden Rise bustling each time I visit and I certainly hope this means they will be sticking around for quite some time.
The Farmer's Basket sandwich (pictured above) is delicious and makes an excellent weekend lunch after a late night: Gouda, Muenster and Cheddar cheeses are toasted on sourdough bread with granny smith apple slices, bacon and mustard. Their fresh baked breads are reasonably priced (about $4) and excellent quality.
Sunflower Market in Lincoln Park is closing February 21, or when supplies run out, according to a chalkboard easel at the front door. (They plan to close stores in Indianapolis and Ohio, too.) It might be tragic to loose a chain store that has supported Chicago-made products from granola to bakery since it opened about a year and a half ago. Still, it shouldn't be a shocker if the aisles have always been as quiet as I've heard them, and with Trader Joe's and Whole Foods within a few minutes walk. Now, the chilled walk-in vegetable section is almost barren, but their shelves are still relatively full. Reusable "Sunflower Market" shopping bags are free with any purchase. 1910 North Clybourn Ave. (773) 348-4667
With recent articles featuring the growth industry of personal image consultants (who would want to pay someone else to go shoe shopping? Does not compute) and the emergence of deal-brokering power breakfasts, Crain's has been all over the personal tangents of business life lately. Their list of the 25 best downtown business dining options is online today, with accompanying kind of hilarious video (the critics are shot with the same obscuring technique that goes into making a meth-user's documentary. Secrecy is funny) and interactive map-thing). They don't exactly cover new ground (Morton's and Gibson's steak houses? shut up!) but a few new, though still critically ambivalent names pop up on the list (The Gage, Table 52). If you're like me, most of your business lunches take place at the cheap taco place down the street, or maybe, if you're feeling particularly fancy, Potbelly's (wreck on wheat, holla!). But it's nice to have some suggestions in your pocket for that rare promotion-lunch or some advice on where to go for your first real wine-and-dining client signing. And at most of these spots, it's probably also nice to have an expense account.
I invited my roommate out for a spicy dinner on a freezing evening last week to celebrate her birthday. Udupi Palace may be my favorite stand-by South Indian establishment on Devon Avenue. The service is excellent and the food always hits the spot.
We ordered the Gobi Masala Curry and the Mattar Paneer (pictured) for $10.00 each, an order of Alu Paratha (whole wheat flat bread stuffed with onion, potato and spices) for $3.50 and two sweet Lassis to cut the spice for $3.00 each.
What is your favorite South Indian food in Chicago?
Diet magazines tell me I'm "an evening snacker" (supposedly that's a bad thing?). It's the time when I get creative (and caloric) with the snacks I conjure up to sate the post-dinner cravings.
This weekend's errands brought me to both Target and Trader Joe's where I picked up a container of Cantaré Olive Tapénade and bag of Archer Farms Black Pepper and Sea Salt potato chips (I'm addicted to the baked version), respectively. It hadn't occurred to me to introduce the two to each other, but their marriage was fated.
Struck by a taste for something salty, I opened the cupboard and found the chips. I took a bite. It wasn't enough. As if someone had softly whispered "olive tapénade" in my ear, I thought of the spread and placed a quarter teaspoons of the briny mix onto my chip. Crunchy, salty, satisfying and just nearly over-the-top, my latest snack hack compelled my husband to refer to me as FG (Food Genius) for the rest of the evening.
It's been little over a year since the acquisition of convenience store White Hen by 7-Eleven Inc and change has been afoot. I stopped in a re-branded White Hen sometime in the summer and was disappointed with the merger of the two stores; it was more like taking the soul and warmth out and leaving it with a cold, lifeless almost empty shell. I hoped this was only the beginning and the stores would start to liven up after time, but no. As more and more stores are going through "the change" the soul is being lost. Most of the employees I've talked to don't like the change, sighting the coldness as a major factor.
Not much is left from the old White Hen, maybe the coffee and some fresh sandwich selections, but for the most part the former Illinois based convenience store will fade into oblivion marked with strips of red, orange and green.
You may not own a tagine (the Moroccan cone-shaped cooking vessel pictured at left), but that doesn't mean you can't make a tagine in the comfort of your own home. Many tagine recipes can be successfully executed in a dutch oven or other large, oven-safe saucepan (i.e. no plastic handles). This tagine recipe produces richly spiced, tender pieces of chicken, which can be served over rice or couscous with the accompanying dried fruit and butternut squash, which lend a distinctly North African flavor. This mixture of sweet and savory is complimented by a variety of spices which add warmth without serious heat, perfect for the next bone-chilling cold spell that sweeps through the city.
I fried up oat and nut burger patties with friends tonight. I bought the Tuscan Burger Mix after chewing through the sample-filled aisles at Green Grocer Chicago (whose store opening Drive-Thru mentioned this week) with Sara. An owner, Cassie Green, whose business card gives her the humbling title of "Owner/Head Stockgirl," excitedly showed me their "vegan shelf." The key to these patties - at least for us - was a hot cast iron pan filled with a thin layer of peanut oil. It sealed the soft, tender oatmeal inside with a crispy, hard outside that went brilliantly with the side of kale my roommate tossed around with lemon juice and garlic gomasio, and a side of polenta. After preparing the burger mix on the stovetop, we thought it was too wet to roll into a log and cut, as the instructions suggested. Instead, we hand-formed patties and dropped them into our pan of hot oil. I might try a bit less water next time, but they turned out quite tasty.
On Friday, my hubby and I had a very Chicago kind of night in an unexpected setting: our apartment. Hometown blues legend Buddy Guy was featured on WXRT 93.1 FM, we had some Goose Island beer on hand and we decided to cook a dish from local darling Rick Bayless' "Mexico One Plate at a Time" &mdash Camarones al Mojo de Ajo, or Quick-Fried Shrimp with Sweet Toasty Garlic.
XRT DJ Tom Marker's soothing voice, Buddy Guy's "Sweet Home Chicago," some Oatmeal Stout, and the shrimp, cooked in a fragrant oil made by simmering two heads (not cloves) of chopped garlic in extra virgin olive oil, then adding the juice of a lime and two adobo chilies from a can, were the perfect anecdote to a cold, snowy evening.
No slogging through the snow to a crowded bar. No burning our mouths on deep-dish pizza. No visit to the over-priced Sears Tower Sky Deck. But a very fine Friday night in Chicago, indeed.
Eating is one of the top highlights if not the best thing about traveling. Any opportunity to take a plunge into the unknown is thrilling and exciting, even if what you experience doesn't match what you're comfortable with. Sometimes it's just good to get away and do everything you'd do at home somewhere else.
I recently took a day trip to Milwaukee and condensed a food tour of the city into fewer than 12 hours. My friends pointed out that we were like Hobbits, enjoying second breakfasts and third lunches in order to get it all in. We opted not to stay overnight and spread out our tour because this was more of an adventure, to see how much we could see and eat in one day. That the city is a mere 1 1/2 hour drive only helped our case. It's a cheap and fun way to spend a day and you don't end up losing your entire weekend by being out of town.
So, how's that New Year's resolution going? You know...the one where you decided to eat healthier? If your resolution needs a bit of encouragement, or if you're looking for a store that supports local merchants, check out this new West Town spot. Green Grocer Chicago, a grocery store featuring organic and locally produced foods, opened yesterday at 1402 W. Grand Ave. Green Grocer Chicago carries items from a variety of well-known Chicago brands, including:
• Time Out's Heather Shouse got an exclusive interview with Schwa's Michael Carlson. He talks about the events leading up to the restaurant's closing, and a little about the changes that have helped bring it back to life.
• Dish points us to HotChefs.TV, a video site with a bunch of chef interviews, and notes that Harry Caray's Tavern will replace the former Hi Tops at Addison and Sheffield (didn't even know it had closed.)
In case it wasn't one of the pre-filled holidays in your day planner, today is National Pie Day. According to the National Pie Council, National Pie Day "is a perfect opportunity to pass on the love and enjoyment of pie eating and pie making to future generations." They also suggest that you "perform random acts of pieness" on National Pie Day, which could include:
-Paying it forward by handing out slices of pie to strangers.
-Throwing a charity pie-eating contest.
-Surprising your significant other at work with a pie.
A few years ago I visited my friend Margaret in St. Petersburg, Russia where she had been living for some time. I could speak endlessly of the culinary delights that I found in that country, but one that stands out was the Korean Carrot Salad sold in the nearby markets.
This simple salad is, as far as I know, not a Korean dish at all. Rather, it is an ingenious Russian dish that blends shredded carrots, fiery seasoning and oil. I work in West Town just down the street from Ann's Bakery, a lovely Ukrainian grocery store that will hopefully be able to stick it out now that Dominick's has moved in down the street. Ann's Korean Carrot Salad sells for about $5 a pound at their deli counter. While you are there you should probably pick up some delicious light rye bread too.
If you are feeling more adventurous, or just happen to have a lot of carrots on hand you can make your own by following recipe after the jump...
I haven't been sleeping well lately, and at my house, that means we break out the late-night dairy. Cereal with milk, a mug of hot chocolate, or bowl of ice cream all seem to help pave the road to Sleepy Town.
Last night, I slept better than I have in weeks, and I credit not only the hot chocolate I drank an hour before bed time, but also the dream I had about judging an ice cream contest. In my dream, Twinkie ice cream with a hot fudge ribbon edged out hazelnut cookie ice cream laced with Nutella.
Either I'm yearning for my junk-food-tinged childhood or jonesing for the March 7 reopening of Scooter's, Chicago's favorite frozen custard (which, by the way, is hiring).
If you weren't gifted over the holidays with the Le Creuset Dutch oven you've been drooling over forever, check out the Chopping Block's 20 percent off sale on all cookware through January 31. The sale includes all those dreamy kitchen items such as All Clad, Le Creuset, Emile Henry and Scan Pan.
We could look down onto the cooks' cutting boards on overhead monitors at Borrowed Earth Café. Looking over the counter, I saw one gal squeezing a hand juicer over a blender and a man command a food processor. A cook was chopping through a big red pail of spinach, cutting batch by batch using his long chef's knife to lift the cuttings into another container.
Be sure to listen to Sound Opinions on Chicago Public Radio (91.5 FM in Chicago) this Friday, Jan 25 at 8pm when Chef Anthony Bordain chats with hosts Jim DeRogatis and Greg Kot about "two of the best things on earth: music and food." Other chefs, including Doug Sohn of Hot Doug's and Graham Elliot Bowles of Avenues at The Peninsula Hotel, will weigh in on the connection between the two topics and Jim and Greg are going to play some of their favorite food-related songs.
If you can't catch the show on Friday, it will re-air on Saturday at 11am and will be available by podcast the following Monday on theSound Opinions site.
Whenever my mom makes this recipe, she tends to make people angry. Why? Because even though it doesn't look all that good, people quickly realize how irresistible this candy is, and they become enraged once they realize they are unable to control themselves in its presence. Saltines are, of course, not an obvious ingredient in a candy recipe. It's their texture and not their flavor that's important here. By providing a base layer, they give the sugar, butter and chocolate something crispy and crunchy to cling to. Once you try this candy, you'll find that the saltines are irreplaceable in the recipe and that you'll have to exercise great self-restraint in the cracker aisle at the grocery store in order to fend off the addiction.
A-ville Daily tips us to the opening of La Cocina de Frida, featuring "made-from-scratch Mexican food and family recipe cooking," in the space previously occupied by Angel's, 5403 N. Clark. The menu promises fresh guacamole, made-daily tamales and empanadas, pollo en mole negro Oaxaca and other authentic Mexican dishes inspired by Friday Kahlo.
The other day I made some Koala Crisp treats. I had some marshmallows on hand, and thought I should use them before they turn to stone. It was so easy; the truth is, my kids made them. I only had to make sure no one got scalded by molten marshmallows. Otherwise, I stood around and watched. And as I watched I started to wonder about other cereals, and how they would fare with melted marshmallows. I was about to embark on a winterlong project with the kids, when I stumbled upon the blog Cakespy, particularly the post about their Cereal Treat Wars. They don't name an actual winner, but do say that Rice Krispies better watch their backs. The comment thread is worth reading too.
River North's Aigre Doux celebrates its first anniversary Monday with a $75 prix fixe dinner which includes a complimentary glass of champagne and a menu with all sorts of creative delights such as pan-seared diver scallops with sea urchin foam and blood orange vinaigrette, Tasmanian crab cake with avocado and pomelo mizuna salad and bluefin tuna carpaccio with arugula, kumquat and Sicilian pistachio. And those are just the appetizers. Not sold? Check out our review from last spring.
Dinner service begins at 5 p.m. and reservations are recommended (which can be made online or by calling 312-329-9400.
The Tribune reports today on an interesting ingredient showing up on area plates: raccoon. Around 2.8 million raccoons wander Illinois, mostly concentrated in Cook, Kane and McHenry counties, which makes them a popular hunting target. Hunters are allowed to eat what they kill and share it with friends, but to sell it, a Wild Game Food Dealers permit is necessary; 43 of those were awarded last year.
A skinned and prepared raccoon costs $3 to $5, which is quite a deal considering that fiver gets you about 15 pounds of meat. Minced slow-braised raccoon has appeared on the menu at Moto (well, more of a special request, actually) in a dish made to look like a gruesome roadkill scene; the Trib's Monica Eng described it as "heavenly."
"The meat emerged pleasantly gamy with a slight chew -- not unlike venison or bison," she said. "And the sweetness of the beets and curry beautifully played off the rich savory meat and earthy artichokes."
Back in September, Guy Fieri from the Food Network show "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives," interviewed the minds behind BBQ masters Galewood Cookshack at the Logan Square Farmers Market. The episode aired January 14 but we have some footage for you to drool over in anticipation of barbecue season (and better weather). Fieri also visited Smoque recently; the next airing of that episode will be Monday night.
While we're all ecstatic about the announcement of Chicago Restaurant Week, where local top-shelf restaurants will offer special prix-fixe lunch and dinner menus for the budget-conscious eater, there's another (yes, another) separate event called Chicago Originals that will take place from January 27 to February 3 to allow the less moneyed foodie another opportunity to eat at local nice places (like Cafe Matou and Sweets and Savories) for the price of $20.08! Can you believe the luck we're having?
Browsing through the Broadway Antique Market this fall, I came across a thick book with a green cover. Embossed on the cover, it said, "The Chicago Daily News Cook Book" in gray art deco-ish letters. The 363-page (including index) book cost $1.00 when it was published in 1930. It was marked $8 in pencil on the endpaper. I knew I had to have it.
Edited by Edith G Shuck, home economics expert for the Daily News, and Dr. Herman N. Bundesen, Cook County coroner and health editor for the Daily News, the book claims to be "a practical guide on hot to balance a diet, meet a budget and prepare a tasty meal for the average urban family."
An Australian graduate student is researching the impact that food blogs are having on established food related print media. Shuna Fish Lydon has posted more information on her website, eggbeater.
If you are a U. S. food blog writer or reader, you can share your input here.
If you're like me and you suck at "eye-balling" measurements, you'll love this nifty Oil and Vinegar Pump Bottle from Crate & Barrel. Simply pump the buttons at the side to fill up the handy calibrated spigot at the top and viola! Perfect measurements without the mess.
[Photo from crateandbarrel.com]
Looking to find the perfect olive oil? Check out these specialty retailers that offer olive oil tastings.
-City Olive
-Ta-Ze
-Old Town Oil
Sometimes I’m not as good a foodie as I pretend to be. (My blog posting stats would bear that out, if nothing else.) Until last week, I had never been to Avec – though it’s safe to say that after that meal, I’ll be looking for a way back as soon as humanly possible. Especially since the menu featured an Iberian ham special for which there are almost no words. In a special reporting segment for today's Trib, however, food author and Spanish resident Janet Mendel offers up many many words to reach the same eventual conclusion. This ham rocks.
Here's the Cliff-Notes version: Iberian ham comes from black acorn-fed pigs from a specific Spanish hog bloodline, and is similar in appearance and texture to proscuitto. Our Avec waitress described it as being served with olive oil, which seemed reasonable in an abstract way until the plate arrived with naked shavings of ham, glistening in a bit of olive oil. So...that was pretty accurate, really. For $25, a simple plate of ham slices might seem a let-down – until of course you start eating it. It’s like pig candy. Pork crack. Words fail to do justice to its richness, its buttery-chewiness and salty tang. Only recently made available in the US, and whole legs (so ubiquitous in the decorating scheme of your favorite local tapas bar) won’t be up for purchase until sometime this summer, and will set you back quite a bit further than the comparatively thrifty shavings at Avec. Even at $1,000 a shank, it may very well be worth it.
Got the afternoon to kill? Have some tea at Chalkboard, one of Lincoln Ave newest restaurants, where a high tea service was just added to the menu. Tea is served from 2 p.m to 4:30 pm on Saturdays, but the restaurant is planning to expand it into a "full weekend service."
Chalkboard's High Tea Service is now served from 2pm-4:30pm on Saturdays, and they're ready and willing to serve vegan guests, although it's encouraged to call ahead.
The Chicago Tribune Web site reported today that some of the city's best restaurants will offer cut-rate, three-course, prix fixe lunches and dinners the week of Feb. 22 to 29.
For just $21.95 for lunch or $31.95 for dinner, you can enjoy an appetizer, entree, and dessert at places like David Burke's Primehouse, Naha, Blue Water Grill, Roy's Restaurant, and Smith & Wollensky. The slogan for the city's first-ever Chicago Restaurant Week is "Eat It Up!" And that's just what restaurateurs are hoping you'll do during what is traditionally a slow time of year for fine dining. Make reservations starting Tuesday.
One of my favorite grocery stores, Sunflower Market, is hosting a screening and premiere party for the TBS show "10 Items or Less" tonight from 6 to 9 pm. Games, prizes and food are all promised, and radio station 101.9 WTMX will be there. The store is located at 1910 N. Clybourn Ave.
This past weekend, I was hoping to use my NPR member card for the first time. This valuable little piece of plastic came with a guide listing all the restaurants where I could flash it to get a free second entree (of equal or lesser value than the first, of course.) Some restaurants have restrictions on the deal, obviously, but many claim to accept the card "anytime." Unfortunately, there are also some restaurants who claim to accept the card anytime (at least according to the guide) but in practice, do not. Unfortunately, La Tache is one of these restaurants.
While you were nursing a hangover on New Year's Day, hometown food critic, Steve Dolinsky, appeared on the Food Network's Iron Chef America. If you happen to have caught the episode or read Dolinsky's blog, that's old news. No word yet on when it will re-air, but the Hungry Hound pledges to update his blog as soon as he knows.
No dairy, no egg is what we asked for, and that is what we got. I'd forgotten that didn't mean vegetarian until the collard greens came. I should have known at a restaurant celebrating "southern reconstruction" cooking. Ironically, if I had simply asked for vegan straight away, Wishbone probably would have accommodated just fine, as their Web site correctly suggests: ".. a hard-working staff and a restaurant you can feel comfortable in whether you come with kids, stuffy business associates, boho vegans, or senior parents from out of town."
Jezebel pointed me to an article in Portfolio by Lew Byrson encouraging beer companies to begin considering women as part of their marketing demographic. Women reportedly make up at least a quarter of beer drinkers these days, yet marketing campaigns from major breweries still continue to predominately show woman serving beer or flanking male beer drinkers.
But lest you think that beer companies completely ignore women, according to the article, "[Women] are supposedly the reason beer comes in six-packs rather than eight-packs--a sixer was presumed to be as much weight as a woman would feel comfortable carrying in one hand." [!]
Most of my female friends and I love beer, though we typically stick to smaller, higher quality breweries. While I will never be a Bud Light or Coors drinker, I am surprised that these major companies have yet to make a real effort to court female drinkers. (Though, I am by no means suggesting that sexist advertising is entirely unique to beer companies.)
Apparently at Chicago's Exsalonance Salon, you can get a beer pedicure. The salon claims that the enzymes and hops in the beer help reduce calluses.
This may very well be the Holy Grail for wine lovers with a sweet tooth. I’m talking about Wine Cellar Sorbet, a company out of New York that’s churning finished wines into delicious treats. The wines used in each sorbet are hand selected by the company’s “Sorbet Sommelier” (Um, do you think they’re hiring?).
Current flavor offerings include:
•Champagne N.V. California
•Riesling 2005 New York
•Rosé N.V. New York
•Sangira Rojo N.V. Spain
•Pinot Noir 2005 New York
•Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 California
Unfortunately, Wine Cellar Sorbet isn’t sold in Chicago (yet), but you can have your order shipped overnight on dry ice. Available in packs of 4, 6 and 12. Just don’t overdo it—the sorbet contains up to 5% alcohol by volume.
Developing a taste for the range of delicacies Chicago restaurants have to offer can take a long time, especially if your roots are in plain turkey sandwiches and chocolate Yoo-Hoo. Drive-Thru editors Meghan Murphy Gill and Robyn Nisi reflect on the culinary milestones that tried their palates.
Chicago turned me into a picky eater.
Ever since I transplanted myself out of a small college town in Virginia, my once up-for-anything palate has taken on a personality of its own. While it didn't morph from easy going to total snob it has become downright discerning, to a point that an impromptu Friday night out can easily transpire into a back and forth discussion, in which my talking points dominate, about what and where to eat.
Sometimes when I open my Outlook calendar, I see the adult equivalent of a grade school cafeteria lunch menu. Depending on the meeting du jour, I can do a fair job predicting the day’s mid-day meal.
While my options tend to fare better than, say, corn dog with peas and Jell-O, or pizza bagel with curly fries and, um, Jell-O, certain boxed lunches are definitely “regulars” in the rotation. I’ve eaten Corner Bakery’s Harvest Salad (you know, the one with the pleasant but predictable combination of apples, dried cranberries, candied walnuts, and bleu cheese) so many times that I’ve taught myself how to duplicate their signature, somewhat goopy, but oddly addictive balsamic vinaigrette at home.
What interests me is whether places like Corner Bakery, Sopraffina, and California Pizza Kitchen monopolize the lunch meeting market in the Loop -- or just in my office. What boxed lunch have you been served every Wednesday for four years? Or do you work for a company that thinks outside the box at lunchtime? Is there a dish you’d gladly never eat again because you associate it with a particularly difficult project, team or client? Or do you look forward to Cosi Thursdays with the same zeal as my eight-year-old self anxiously awaited the monthly appearance of Thanksgiving Dinner lunch (featuring the world’s most amazing pumpkin bread) on the St. Thomas More Hot Lunch Menu?
The Chicago Tribune has a photo gallery up right now of their "best food photographs." The pictures by Bill Hogan and Bob Fila are indeed beautiful. Those of you, like myself, who have tried your hand at food photography know how difficult it can be to compose a nice shot of a food item -- especially without fancy equipment.
We're officially in the second week of January, and you're doing a pretty good job avoiding the fatty, salty, greasy, foods that will most certainly cause the demise of your diet before St. Patrick's Day arrives. Maybe I'm just projecting my problems, because while catching up on some long overdue blog reading, I discovered this: Bon Appétit's guide to perfect French Fries with video podcast and recipes included.
And here I thought I was safe so long that I steered clear of the Hopleaf. Now I cannot stop thinking about perfectly fried thin spears of hot, greasy, salty potatoes dipped in rich garlicky aioli.
Comedian Patton Oswalt may not ring a lot of bells in your head, though you may know him as the voice of Remy, the rodent gourmand of this past year's Disney eye-candy Ratatouille. One of the highlights of his stand-up is a culinary description at the opposite end of the taste spectrum -- an almost painfully hilarious take on the KFC Famous Bowl. Or, as he calls it, a Failure Pile in a Sadness Bowl. (If this isn't ringing any bells either, for goodness sakes, get yourself up to speed.) Genius.
Both Metromix and Chicagoist have reported on Schwa's comeback. According to Metromix, Shwa's chef, Michael Carlson, was just taking time off to spend time with his baby daughter and spiff up the joint.
While Schwa won't be back in business until late January at the earliest, you can pass the time with Naz's foodporn, shot at the restaurant early last year.
Shine Morida's service was tops and courteous. Our server intently placed our water glasses on the table, pausing a moment after lowering them to our table, just before they touched, as if to buffer a clanking sound. We'd asked him to see if the kitchen would make satay with tofu (menu lists chicken, beef, shrimp); but they said no. Meanwhile, he checked to see if some dumplings, edamame shu maiI think, had any egg in the batter. They used egg to seal the pastry, so I turned our problem back on the kitchen, asking our server to ask the kitchen what they'd recommend as a vegan appetizer. I didn't want to go back and forth with questions, and our server very kindly accommodated. Veggie dumplings, gyoza I think, were the answer. They were filled with tender minced vegetables and served in a thickly woven steam box.
• Sweet Occasions opens its third location, on Bryn Mawr at Kenmore, next Tuesday, Jan. 15. Three more locations, in Roscoe Village, Boystown and Lincoln Park, are planned for later in '08.
• The owners of Think Cafe recently began construction on a new restaurant, to be called Knew, in Wicker Park. No opening date set yet.
• At Wilson and Ravenswood in underserved Ravenswood, O'Shaughnessey's is nearing completion; looks to be a couple months from opening. From the external signage, it'll be a standard model Irish pub, unless they're serious about being "tea merchants" and "whiskey blenders."
• Metromix reports that a new beer garden is growing in East Ukrainian Village. The Old Oak Tap is aiming for a September opening.
• Pollo Campero will open its third Chicago location on a western stretch of North Avenue in the coming months.
• Eno, the wine room chain with an outpost in the Hotel Intercontinental, is opening another branch in the lobby of the Fairmont Hotel; look for it to pop up in May.
• The beloved, belated Tiny Lounge (formerly under the Addison Brown Line stop) is soon to reopen in the former Charlie's on Leavitt space at Leavitt/Lincoln/Montrose. Let's hope for a quick build-out and open.
On Friday night, I made a long overdue pilgrimage to one of Chicago's most well-known blues clubs, Kingston Mines. It's been years since my last visit, but I still find myself rhapsodizing to friends about their chicken wings -- and I don't even like wings. In fact, these are the only wings I've ever tried that I actually enjoy eating.
Where food and music were concerned, on Friday, this class Chicago joint didn't disappoint. I'll get to that in a moment. But first, dear reader, I hope you'll indulge me in a short rant about the disrespect with which I was treated by the club's resident curmudgeon.
For some time the fast food giant has been upgrading their coffee offerings as well as spaces in most stores, but now its going to add full on coffee bars complete with baristas. The move will signals the direct competition between McDonald’s and the current coffee dominator Starbucks, who has been encroaching on the breakfast market with the addition of drive-thru windows and breakfast sandwiches.
McDonald’s expects to add $1 billion to annual sales with the addition to its 14,000 stores. This comes as a second blow to Starbucks; Dunkin Donuts' own move toward the espresso market has also been viewed as a threat.
During last week's Project Runway challenge (clothing made entirely in items gathered from the Hershey's store in Times Square), my friends and I suddenly started craving candy thanks to the strategic, but far from covert, product placement. Enter the sugared and salted licorice Swedish Fish.
Licorice already occupies a space low on my totem pole of things I like to eat as does most candy, Swedish Fish included. But I was intrigued, and my friend's nondescript warning ("They're interesting.") wasn't going to satisfy me. So I dove in.
The words I'd like to use to describe these wretched morsels of mouth pain aren't appropriate for the generally congenial tone this blog maintains. While they did begin as interesting, the more I chewed the more I wanted the whole night to go away, never to haunt my memories again. All I can say is that if you don't already love, and I mean love the sweet peppery candy on its own, there is little chance that you will enjoy it coated in a layer of sugar and salt.
I was reading the San Francisco Chronicle a few weeks ago and came across a neat story about a Northwestern University art professor who held a seminar to talk about his Iraqi-Jewish heritage and make the foods of his childhood. The seminar, called Enemy Kitchen, was also an opportunity for the audience to talk about their perspectives on the war and the impact it has had on culture. The professor, Michael Rakowitz, will be bringing Enemy Kitchen to the Hyde Park Art Center this Sunday from 5-7pm, as part of the companion exhibit Consuming War which ends January 20 at the Center. Reservations are required. Click here to register.
There have been some bitter feelings since local favorite Marshall Field's became Macy's back in 2006, but Frango chocolates are sweeter than ever due to their nationwide availability. I received The Frango Cookbook: Simple Recipes & Sweet Ideas as a Christmas gift from my mother in-law—a charming and beautifully photographed dessert cookbook featuring 36 Frango-filled recipes. From easy recipes that even the most amateur baker could tackle (like Flourless Frango Chocolate Cake which is featured on the cover of the cookbook and uses only 3 ingredients—including 45 Frango chocolates), to ones that are a bit more complicated (like Famous Frango Chocolate Cheesecake), this is a sweet cookbook that will pull at any chocoholics heartstrings.
My hubby and I did some holiday returns this weekend, and all of those overheated stores and long lines made us hungry. I had dinner plans with a friend, so I just wanted a snack. He hadn't eaten all day, so he wanted something more substantial. To further complicate matters, we were in Old Town, where few options exist besides overpriced bar food and really overpriced fine dining. That's why we were pleasantly surprised when we stumbled upon Old Jerusalem.
I don't know why I've never noticed the place before; it's been a fixture since '76. No matter. I'm glad we found it this weekend. I ordered the combination vegetarian entree, knowing Brian would power down my leftovers. The platter had generous helpings of hummus, tebouleh, and Jerusalem salad; the most delicious and exquisitely smoky baba ganouj I've ever tasted; and three perfectly crispy, piping hot falafil. Brian ordered the shawirma sandwich. The beef and lamb shawirma was tender and, notably, not over seasoned. Plus, the pita was so stuffed with meat and the works that we marveled at how it maintained its structural integrity.
Service was polite and prompt. Despite my dinner plans, I decided it would be worth it to sample Old Jerusalem's sweets. The harisa, a traditional Middle Eastern dessert made mainly of semolina, burst with flavor. Interestingly, the cake was soaked in a milk and honey syrup, as opposed to the more traditional citrus-spiked simple syrup. I like it Old Jerusalem-style, and I'll definitely make a return visit to try the kinafa, which features ricotta cheese, and the baklawa.
If you love Trader Joe's as much as I do, you know that their products can be, well, uneven. Some things are amazing, some are awful. Finally I've found Trader Joes Fans.com, a nice third-party resource for getting reviews on TJ's food, as well as recipe ideas and a forum. Finally, a place where I can gab about Three Buck Chuck other than AA.
Zagat Survey has chosen the top 11 restaurants of the year based on cost, service and decor. It is an interesting mix with only two establishments hitting close to home. All of the restaurants scored a 29 out of a possible 30 points. Has anyone dined at these restaurants?
If you're a fan of farmers markets here in Chicago, you probably mourn the day when your market closes in the fall. Well, the next three months don't have to be a barren wasteland of mass produced bland thanks to Local Harvest and Churches' Center for Land and Peoples. You may not be able to get tomatoes and peas, but you will be able to find "cheese, meat and poultry, soap, syrup, eggs, honey, wool and woolen goods, raw fibers, vinegars, dried herbs, dried fruits, milled flours, fruit butters, sauces and salsas, preserves, cider, seasoned firewood.....in short, anything that a farm grows or produces from what they grow." Check the calendar for when and where to find the indoor markets and to see which locations will have cafes, electronics recycling, or serve brunch. And if you happen to be a member of a congregation that would like to host a market, or if you are a farm owner looking for a place to sell your wares, give Robin Shimer a call.
One of my favorite aspects of this is that there is no fee for the farmers to attend. Once they hit a sales baseline, they'll donate a portion of their proceeds to the Harvest of Hope Fund that provides small payments to farmers who find themselves in crisis. How can I not love good food that supports farmers during lean months to raise funds used to support farmers who can then make more good food?
Big cities like Chicago and San Francisco come to mind when I think of eating out vegan style. Small progressive cities are good, too. Take Asheville, North Carolina: number one in PETA's list of America's Best Vegetarian-Friendly Small Cities. In Logan, Utah, I didn't expect much beyond our own vegan family cooking. Maybe there would be accidentally vegan fare like hash browns and grits at diners, burritos at Mexican spots, pasta, and the occasional Indian restaurant offerings.
Living in Chicago means that I think I can find any food or ingredient. I can go to Patel Brothers on Devon Avenue for Indian foods, over to Conte di Savoia on Taylor Street for Italian, or Argyle Street for Vietnamese.
But I'm stumped. I can't find Portuguese muffins. These soft, buttery versions of English muffins have long been a favorite (even when I bought them as "Australian Toaster Biscuits" from Oroweat), and despite my searches, these don't seem to be anywhere near Chicago. I can attempt recipes, or order online, but I'd rather find them locally. Anyone?
At this time of year, the last thing anyone wants is another heavy dessert. And with citrus fruits at their peak, there's no better time to make a recipe like this one. It's all in the presentation here since the ingredients are simple and there aren't many of them. Regular navel oranges work just fine, but for a more luxurious result, look for blood oranges. Once you've peeled the orange (removing every last scrap of white pith), hold it in the palm of your left hand and, using a paring knife, remove each section by cutting right alongside the membranes that separate one section from the next. Arrange the sections in a circle on a plate as pictured and squeeze on top whatever is left of the orange now that the sections are removed. Next, if you like, drizzle on a drop or two of Grand Marnier and a pinch of sugar. Finally, grate a fine dusting of good dark chocolate on top. What you'll get is a dessert that's sweet and juicy and won't leave you with that dizzy, leaden, "did I just eat twelve sugar cookies?" feeling you'd grown so accustomed to over the past few weeks.
If you still haven't set a New Year's goal, here's one guaranteed to improve your homecooked meals in 2008: take 15 minutes to inventory your spice rack and toss out anything that's been sitting around since the ball dropped last New Year's Eve.
I know, I know, it's not easy to part with that jar of ground ginger you shelled out $8 for and used three times. But rest assured, you can replace your losses affordably by buying small amounts of spices from bulk bins when the recipe calls for them. Whole Foods has a good selection of spices that turnover fairly quickly, but if you want the real deal, I recommend becoming a regular at The Spice House on Wells in Chicago.
From cacao nibs and whole cloves of nutmeg to Hungarian paprika and a wonderful Chinese Five Spice Powder, The Spice House has the best. They also sell small, airtight jars for a couple of bucks that will lengthen the life of any leftover spices you may want to store. You'll want to check out this great little shop in person to avail yourself of all the free smells and samples, but those who can't make it to Old Town can order online.
In 2009, food blogging, social media and Yelp were gaining popularity, and America's revered gastronomic magazine Gourmet shuttered after 68 years in business. Former Cook's Illustrated editor-in-chief Chris Kimball followed with an editorial, stating that "The shuttering of Gourmet reminds... Read this feature »